Curitiba

Brazil's eco-capital, famous for its rapid bus system and parks; beyond the Botanical Garden greenhouse, the Wire Opera House and Niemeyer's “Eye Museum,” you can ride the Serra Verde Express through the Atlantic Forest to Morretes.

Curitiba, capital of the state of Paraná in southern Brazil, sits on a plateau at about 930 m with a population of around 1.8 million. It is known for the bus rapid transit system it pioneered in the 1970s, its abundant green space per resident and its recycling programs, and is often called Brazil's eco-capital. The city was largely built by German, Italian, Polish, Ukrainian and Japanese immigrants, and many of its parks feature memorials to these communities. The climate is subtropical highland, making it one of Brazil's coldest state capitals: in winter (Jun–Aug) mornings and evenings often dip below 10°C with occasional frost, while summer (Dec–Feb) is warm with frequent thunderstorms; Mar–May and Sep–Nov are the most pleasant. Sightseeing falls into three parts: the historic downtown (the Largo da Ordem historic center, Rua das Flores, the Cathedral and the Paço da Liberdade); the park belt to the north and west (the Botanical Garden, the Wire Opera House, Tanguá Park, the German Woods, the Oscar Niemeyer Museum, Barigui Park and the Italian district of Santa Felicidade); and the classic day trip east down the Serra do Mar, riding the Serra Verde Express scenic train to the colonial town of Morretes and returning via the historic Estrada da Graciosa. About 80 km west lies the sandstone formations of Vila Velha. Getting there: Afonso Pena International Airport (CWB) is about 18 km southeast of the city, with frequent flights to São Paulo, Rio and elsewhere; buses from São Paulo take about 6 hours. In town, the double-decker Linha Turismo sightseeing bus is recommended: its loop links more than 20 attractions and you can hop on and off at 4 stops. You can also try the city's iconic tube-station rapid buses. Plan on 3 days: one for the old town and the Sunday market, one for parks and museums, and one for the Serra Verde Express. Note: book the Serra Verde Express in advance; some museums close on Mondays; downtown is deserted at night, so taking a taxi is safer.

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