Conakry
Guinea's capital, a seaside city on the Kaloum Peninsula; take a boat to the Îles de Los for a beach stay, and explore the Chien Qui Fume mountain and the Voile de la Mariée waterfall outside town.
Conakry is the capital and largest city of Guinea, set on the long, narrow Kaloum Peninsula on the Atlantic coast. With a population of about 2 million, the city stretches more than 30 km northeast from the old town of Kaloum at the tip of the peninsula. Sightseeing falls into three areas. First, the old town of Kaloum, home to the National Museum, Sainte-Marie Cathedral and the port. Second, the central districts with the Palais du Peuple, the 22 November Monument, the Centre Culturel Franco-Guinéen, the Grand Mosque (Faisal Mosque) and the Camayenne botanical garden, as well as Madina Market, one of the largest open-air markets in West Africa. Third, the offshore Îles de Los: a 20–45-minute boat ride from the old town's jetty takes you to Kassa and Room islands for beaches and seafood — the most popular weekend outing. Nearby, you can visit the Chien Qui Fume ("Smoking Dog") mountain near Dubréka, while about 135 km to the northeast by road is the Voile de la Mariée ("Bridal Veil") waterfall near Kindia, good for a weekend day trip or an overnight stay. Guinea is known as the cradle of West African music; in the evening, head to the cultural centre or a bar to hear the kora, balafon and modern Mande music. The climate is tropical monsoon; November–April is the dry season and the best time to travel, while June–September is the rainy season, with extremely heavy rainfall that often disrupts ferries and roads. Getting there: Conakry International Airport (Gbessia) has flights to Dakar, Abidjan, Paris, Casablanca and elsewhere; traffic in the city is severely congested, so getting around is mostly by taxi or hired car. Allow 2–4 days. Note: arrange a visa in advance and get a yellow fever vaccination; French is widely spoken. Safety is fair at best, so avoid walking at night; cash is mainly in Guinean francs, and follow embassy advisories when the political situation changes.
Top sights
- Île de Roume (Îles de Loos) – The most popular getaway island in the Los Islands, ringed by golden beaches and coconut palms. It is said to be one of the inspirations be…
- Grand Mosque of Conakry (Faisal Mosque) – Built in 1982 with Saudi funding, this is one of the largest mosques in West Africa. Next to it is the Camayenne Mausoleum, where Guinea's…
- Île de Kassa – The largest and most populous of the Los Islands, and the closest to the capital. Fishing villages, beaches and old colonial ruins sit side…
- Guinea National Museum (Sandervalia) – The national museum, housed in the former residence of the French explorer Sanderval. Its collection includes masks, musical instruments an…
- Jardin Botanique de Camayenne – A tropical experimental botanical garden established by the French in 1897. Its shady avenues of old trees make it an oasis within the crow…
- Marché Madina – One of the largest open-air markets in West Africa, selling fabric, spices, second-hand goods and daily necessities. It offers a taste of s…
- Voile de la Mariée – A waterfall about 70 metres high near Kindia. The water falls like a white veil, and the surrounding bamboo groves and mountain scenery mak…
- Le Chien qui Fume – An isolated rock mountain near Dubréka, shaped like a dog lying down. Clouds often drift over its summit, making it look as though it is sm…
- Kakimbon Caves – Natural caves in the forest of the Ratoma district north of the city, regarded by the local Baga people as a traditional sacred site for ri…
- Palais du Peuple – The national assembly and conference centre, built with Chinese aid in the 1960s. Its broad front square and fountains are important public…
- Monument du 22 Novembre 1970 – A monument commemorating the repulse of the 1970 Portuguese invasion. Its sculptures and inscriptions are important symbols of Guinea's mod…
- Cathédrale Sainte-Marie de Conakry – The Catholic cathedral of Conakry, completed in 1930. Its Romanesque-style red-and-white facade makes it one of the landmarks of the old Ka…
- Centre Culturel Franco-Guinéen – The most active cultural venue in Conakry, hosting West African concerts, dance, theatre and exhibitions. It is a good window into local ar…
Where to eat
- Africana – An established African restaurant in Kaloum, opened in 1999, serving a different African dish of the day at lunch; a re…
- Le Cèdre – A Lebanese restaurant in Kaloum operating for over twenty-five years, known for cold mezze and generous grills, and oft…
- Les Jardins de Guinée – A garden restaurant under large trees and a broad thatched pavilion, serving French and African dishes. Grilled skewers…
Itineraries
- West Africa Six-Country Overland – An epic overland journey heading south from Dakar through six countries to Monrovia, including the Bijagós Archipelago.