Chișinău

The capital of little-visited Moldova, surrounded by Mileștii Mici, the world's largest wine cellar, the underground wine city of Cricova and the cave monastery of Orheiul Vechi.

Chișinău, the capital of Moldova, sits in the hills between the Prut and Dniester rivers. The city is very green, and Stefan cel Mare Boulevard runs through the centre, lined with Stefan cel Mare Park, the Cathedral of Christ's Nativity, the Triumphal Arch, the National Opera and several national museums, all easily covered on foot in a day. The city itself is laid-back and inexpensive, but the real highlights lie beyond: the giant underground wine cellars of Mileștii Mici to the south and Cricova to the north, and the cave monastery in the Orheiul Vechi gorge 60 km away. Further afield are the Căpriana and Hîncu monasteries in the Codri forests, the Țipova and Saharna cave monasteries and Soroca Fortress along the Dniester, and wineries such as Mimi Castle and Purcari to the southeast. The climate is mildly continental, with hot summers and cold winters; May–Jun and Sep–Oct are the best times, and the National Wine Day festival is held in early October. You can fly in via Chișinău International Airport or arrive by night train or bus from Iași or Bucharest in Romania. Trolleybuses and minibuses in town are cheap; for wineries and monasteries outside the city, hire a driver or join a tour, and book cellar visits in advance. Transnistria in the east (Tiraspol, Bender) is not internationally recognised; it can be visited on a day trip, but you must register with your passport and keep an eye on safety advisories. Plan on 3–4 days.

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Where to eat

Itineraries