Chiang Rai

Thailand's northernmost city of art, where the White Temple, Blue Temple and Black House showcase contemporary Thai aesthetics, while the Golden Triangle and Mae Salong tea hills offer a borderland atmosphere.

Chiang Rai is Thailand's northernmost province. Its capital, Chiang Rai city, sits on the Kok River about 180 km northeast of Chiang Mai. It was founded as a capital in 1262 by King Mengrai of the Lanna Kingdom (34 years before Chiang Mai), lies at an elevation of about 400 m, and borders Myanmar and Laos, making it a frontier town and home to northern Thailand's hill tribes. Chiang Rai's tourism image has been shaped by two local artists: Chalermchai Kositpipat's White Temple (Wat Rong Khun), the Blue Temple (Wat Rong Suea Ten) built by his student, and Thawan Duchanee's Black House Museum (Baan Dam). Together they make up the "white, blue and black" day trip, a must for almost every visitor. Where to go: in town, you'll find the Clock Tower (designed by Chalermchai, with an evening light show), the night market and Saturday walking street, and Wat Phra Kaew, where the Emerald Buddha now in Bangkok was discovered. The White Temple is 13 km south of the city; to the north are the Blue Temple, the Black House and Wat Huay Pla Kang with its giant Guanyin statue. Singha Park to the southwest is a tea plantation and the venue of the balloon festival. Some 60–70 km north are the ancient town of Chiang Saen and the Golden Triangle (where Thailand, Myanmar and Laos meet at the Mekong confluence, with an opium museum and Mekong boat cruises). Mae Salong, 70 km to the northwest, is a Chinese tea-hill village settled by descendants of the Kuomintang 93rd Division, and Doi Tung has the Royal Villa and gardens of the Princess Mother. Farther north lies the border crossing of Mae Sai. Climate: the cool season from November to February is clear and sunny, with mornings and evenings below 15°C, and is the best time to visit; the Singha Park International Balloon Fiesta takes place in mid-February. March–April is the burning season, with heavy smoke haze and very poor air quality, so avoid it. May–October is the rainy season, when the hills are lush green but roads are muddy. Getting there and around: Chiang Rai Airport has flights from Bangkok, Chiang Mai and elsewhere, with charter flights from some Chinese cities. The Green Bus from Chiang Mai takes about 3–3.5 hours. In town, use songthaews, tuk-tuks and Grab; outlying sights require a chartered car (about THB 1,500–2,500 per day) or a day tour. Recommended stay: 2–3 days. Good to know: dress modestly at temples, and the White Temple strictly checks for shorts and short skirts; temperatures swing widely between day and night in the hills, so bring a jacket; do not take part in any gambling or border-crossing activities in the Golden Triangle or border areas; during haze season bring an N95 mask or reschedule.

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