Borjomi

A spa town famous for its mineral water, with forest hikes in the national park and easy trips to the cave city of Vardzia and Rabati Castle in Akhaltsikhe.

Borjomi lies in Georgia's south-central Samtskhe-Javakheti region, in the valley of the Mtkvari (Kura) River at the northern foot of the Lesser Caucasus. At about 800 m, it is surrounded by dense pine forest. The town is famous for the mineral water that bears its name, and since the 19th century it has been a spa retreat for the Russian aristocracy; the Mineral Water Park, the Romanovs' Likani Palace and the old sanatoriums all bear witness to that era. There are three main things to do: drink the mineral water in the park and soak in the open-air sulphur pools in the forest; hike in Borjomi-Kharagauli National Park; and ride the narrow-gauge "Kukushka" train up to Bakuriani (skiing in winter). A day trip south takes in Rabati Castle in Akhaltsikhe, Sapara Monastery and Khertvisi Fortress before reaching the 12th-century cave city of Vardzia. Weather-wise, May–October is best for hiking, with lovely autumn colours in September–October; winters in the valley are fairly mild, and Bakuriani offers skiing from December to March. Minibuses from Tbilisi's Didube station take about 2.5–3 hours, or you can go by train; for Vardzia, hire a driver or change in Akhaltsikhe. Plan on 2–3 days. Note: overnight stays in the national park must be registered at the visitor centre; monasteries require long sleeves and trousers, and women should cover their heads; the Kukushka timetable changes often, so check before you go.

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