Batanes
The Philippines' northernmost islands, where rolling grasslands drop straight into the sea, dotted with Ivatan stone houses and lighthouses; often called 'the Scotland of the Philippines'.
Batanes is the northernmost province of the Philippines, lying in the Bashi Channel between Luzon and Taiwan's Orchid Island. It consists of ten islands, including Batan, Sabtang and Itbayat, with Basco as the capital. Far from the main islands, its green grasslands sweep down hillsides to sea cliffs, dotted with grazing cattle, earning it the nickname 'the Scotland of the Philippines'; the thick-walled, thatch-roofed stone houses built by the indigenous Ivatan to withstand typhoons are national cultural heritage. Batan Island is the base for exploring: North Batan has Naidi Hills Lighthouse, Vayang Rolling Hills, Valugan Boulder Beach, Tukon Chapel and the Japanese tunnel; along the coastal ring road of South Batan are Chawa View Deck, Mahatao Church, Marlboro Country, Tayid Lighthouse, Alapad, the Song-Song ruins and the Honesty Coffee Shop in Ivana. A traditional wooden boat from Ivana port reaches Sabtang Island in about 30–40 minutes, for a day trip to its stone-house villages and the rock arch at Morong Beach. Itbayat, further away, requires a long boat ride and an overnight stay, and is not covered here. The best time to visit is Mar–May, with clear skies and calm seas; Jun–Nov is typhoon season, when flights and boats are often cancelled, and Dec–Feb brings strong northeast monsoon winds and high seas. Getting there: direct flights from Manila and Clark to Basco take about 1.5–2 hours. Get around the island by bicycle, rented e-scooter or chartered tricycle. Allow 4–5 days, with extra time in case weather leaves you stranded. Prices in Batanes are relatively high and ATMs are few, so bring enough cash; an environmental fee is charged for visiting Sabtang.
Top sights
- Naidi Hills Lighthouse (Basco Lighthouse) – A white stone lighthouse on the hill beside Basco harbour, where a climb to the top rewards you with views over Basco town, Mount Iraya and…
- Vayang Rolling Hills – Rolling green hills along the northern coast of Basco, dotted with grazing cattle, where grassy slopes drop to blue sea cliffs in scenery r…
- Marlboro Country (Racuh a Payaman) – A public pasture in Mahatao on Batan's east coast, where gentle grassy slopes run down to the sea, with views of Tayid Lighthouse and Mount…
- Honesty Coffee Shop – An unattended little shop by the harbour in Ivana, where customers take what they want, pay by dropping money into a box and record their p…
- Chavayan Village – A village of stone houses between mountains and sea at the southern tip of Sabtang Island, where women still weave the traditional rain hat…
- Morong Beach & Nakabuang Arch – A white-sand beach on the northwest coast of Sabtang Island, where a natural stone arch stands by the sea, Batanes' most famous photo spot.
- Valugan Boulder Beach – A beach on the east coast of Basco, covered with rounded boulders. The stones come from an ancient eruption of Mount Iraya, and the thunder…
- House of Dakay – One of the oldest stone houses in Batanes, built in 1887. Its thick stone walls and thatched roof have withstood hundreds of typhoons and e…
- San Jose de Ivana Church – A stone church founded by Spanish missionaries in 1795. Its bell tower resembles a castle, and it is just one street from Honesty Coffee Sh…
- San Carlos Borromeo Church, Mahatao – A baroque stone church completed in 1789 and listed as a national cultural property of the Philippines. Its rugged stone walls contrast sha…
- Basco Cathedral (Santo Domingo) – The cathedral of Basco, the capital of Batanes. This white stone church, begun in 1783, has Mount Iraya behind it and is a landmark of the…
- Mt. Carmel Chapel (Tukon Church) – A small chapel on Tukon Hill, built in the style of traditional Ivatan stone houses. Its thatched roof and stone walls are distinctive, and…
- Fundacion Pacita – A boutique stone guesthouse converted from the former home of Batanes artist Pacita Abad, with stunning sea-cliff sunsets and a café where…
- Mount Iraya – At 1,009 meters, this is the highest peak in the Batanes. Its summit is often wreathed in clouds, and it forms the backdrop for most of the…
- Dipnaysupuan Japanese Tunnel – An underground tunnel dug by locals forced to work for the Japanese during their occupation of the Batanes in World War II. It has several…
- Alapad Pass & Rock Formation – Hills and rock formations along the South Batanes coastal road, with grassy slopes dropping down to beaches. A film location and a classic…
- Songsong Ruins – A stone house village abandoned after a tsunami destroyed it in the 1950s. Only roofless stone walls remain, covered in vines, giving the s…
- Chawa View Deck – A viewing deck on the sea cliffs of Mahatao, from which you can descend stone steps to the shore's rock platforms and watch huge waves cras…
- Tayid Lighthouse – A hexagonal white lighthouse on a grassy hilltop in Mahatao, overlooking the Pacific. It is one of the most photogenic lighthouses in the B…
- Diura Fishing Village – A traditional fishing village on the east coast of Mahatao. Each year from March to May it holds the flying fish season ceremony, when fish…
- Homoron Blue Lagoon – A small blue bay on the west coast of Mahatao, enclosed by reefs and cliffs. Its clear waters make it one of the few places in the Batanes…
- Sabtang Church & Lighthouse – An 18th-century stone church and a cape lighthouse beside the Sabtang Island pier. They are the first stop after landing on the island-hopp…
- Savidug Stone House Village – One of the best-preserved Ivatan stone house villages on Sabtang Island, with thatched-roof stone houses lining narrow lanes.
Where to eat
- Café du Tukon – A restaurant inside the Fundacion Pacita hilltop inn above Basco, serving modern Ivatan food made with local farm and f…
- Vunong Dinette (Jessica's Home) – A traditional Ivatan feast of turmeric rice wrapped in breadfruit leaves, served in the courtyard of owner Jessica's ho…
- Casa Napoli Pizza – A long-established brick-oven pizzeria in Basco with a short menu and freshly baked thin crusts; a popular change of pa…
- Beehan Food Enterprise – A budget family eatery in central Basco where you can order a platter of uved, luñis and fern salad; popular with local…
- Octagon Bed and Dine – An octagonal restaurant by the Basco harbour, with a terrace facing the sea and the Naidi Hills lighthouse, popular for…
Itineraries
- Batanes Grasslands and Stone Houses Route – Cover the north and south loops of Batan Island and the Sabtang stone house villages in four days, leaving one day for…