Axum

Former capital of the Kingdom of Aksum, with giant obelisks and underground royal tombs; the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion is said to house the Ark of the Covenant, and Yeha Temple and cliffside monasteries lie nearby.

Axum lies in the Tigray Region at the northernmost tip of Ethiopia, at an elevation of about 2,100 m, close to the Eritrean border. From the 1st to the 8th century AD it was the capital of the Kingdom of Aksum, which controlled Red Sea trade and minted its own coins; in the 4th century King Ezana converted to Christianity, making Ethiopia one of the earliest Christian countries. The archaeological site was inscribed as a World Heritage Site in 1980. The best season is the dry season from October to March, with warm days and cool mornings and evenings; June to September is the rainy season. Pilgrims flock here around the festival of Our Lady Mary of Zion on November 30 and Timkat (Epiphany) in January, so book accommodation in advance. Sightseeing falls into three parts: the Northern Stelae Park (giant stelae, underground royal tombs, archaeological museum) and the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion complex, north of town, are within walking distance; around town are the Queen of Sheba's Bath, the Ezana Stone, the Tomb of King Kaleb, Dungur Palace, the Gudit Stelae Field, the Tomb of Bazen and the Abba Pantaleon Monastery, which you can link by tuk-tuk; further-afield day trips go to Yeha Temple, Adwa and Abba Garima Monastery, as well as Debre Damo Monastery, which requires a rope climb and is open to men only. Getting there: Axum Airport has Ethiopian Airlines flights to and from Addis Ababa, Lalibela and Gondar; by road it is about 4–5 hours from Mekelle. We suggest staying 2 days: one for the sites in town, one for Yeha and Debre Damo. Note: Tigray experienced armed conflict in 2020–2022 and is still recovering, so flights, roads and site openings may change. Before you travel, be sure to check the latest advisories from the Chinese Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the Chinese Embassy in Ethiopia, and hire a licensed guide. Remove your shoes to enter churches, and women should wear long skirts and cover their heads; some monasteries are open to men only.

Top sights

• Obelisks of Aksum – The ancient capital of the Kingdom of Aksum, with rows of giant granite stelae. Legend says the Ark of the Covenant is kept at the Church o…
• Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion – The most sacred church of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church, believed to hold the Ark of the Covenant. An old church, a new church and a chapel…
• King Ezana's Stele – The only giant stele in the North Stelae Park that has never fallen. It stands about 21 meters tall, with nine carved stories of 'windows'…
• Aksum Archaeological Museum – A small museum at the entrance to the Northern Stelae Park, displaying coins, pottery and inscriptions from the Kingdom of Aksum.
• Tomb of the False Door & Mausoleum – Royal tombs of Aksum beneath the Stelae Park. The stone false door carvings and granite burial chambers of the Tomb of the False Door are w…
• Ezana Stone – A victory stele from the 4th century, carved by King Ezana in Ge'ez, Sabaean and Greek. It is considered evidence of the arrival of Christi…
• Mai Shum (Queen of Sheba's Bath) – An ancient water reservoir carved out of rock, traditionally said to be the Queen of Sheba's bath, and still used by residents as a water s…
• Tombs of Kings Kaleb and Gebre Meskel – Underground tombs of a 6th-century king and his son on a hill north of the city. The stones are cut so precisely that they fit together wit…
• Dungur (Queen of Sheba's Palace) – Ruins of an Aksumite aristocratic residence on the western side of the city, known locally as the Queen of Sheba's Palace. Its room layouts…
• Gudit Stelae Field – An early stele burial ground across from Dungur, with hundreds of roughly carved stelae scattered across the fields. It feels more primitiv…
• Tomb of Bazen – A stepped ancient tomb cut into solid rock, traditionally linked to King Bazen, who was said to be a contemporary of Jesus.
• Abba Pentalewon Monastery – An ancient monastery on a hilltop northeast of the city, founded by one of the Nine Saints, with views over the whole of Aksum.
• Lioness of Gobedra – A carved relief of a lioness from the Aksumite period on a quarry cliff west of the city. Quarry marks from the giant stelae can also be se…
• Aksum Market – A traditional market in the city centre selling spices, grains, handmade baskets and religious items. It is busiest on Saturdays.
• Temple of Yeha – A stone temple from around the 7th century BCE, the oldest surviving building in Ethiopia. Nearby are the ruins of the Grat Be'al Gebri pal…
• Debre Damo Monastery – A 6th-century monastery on a flat-topped mountain, reachable only by climbing a 15-metre cliff with a leather rope. Men only.
• Abba Garima Monastery – An ancient monastery near Adwa that houses what is considered one of the oldest illustrated Christian gospel books in the world.
• Adwa – The site of the 1896 Battle of Adwa, where Ethiopia defeated Italy. The jagged volcanic peaks outside the town are highly distinctive.

Where to eat

• Kuda Juice & Pizzeria – The highest-rated casual eatery in Axum, popular for its pizzas, burgers, and fresh juices, featuring a leafy courtyard…
• AB Cultural Restaurant – A traditional music and dance restaurant on Ezana Road, featuring evening stage performances and specializing in sautée…
• Antica Special Cultural Restaurant – A traditional restaurant near the Obelisk Park, within walking distance of the main road, featuring local music and dan…