Ashgabat
Holder of the Guinness World Record for the most white marble buildings, with the ancient ruins of Nisa nearby and a classic overnight trip to the Darvaza gas crater, the “Gates of Hell”.
Ashgabat is the capital of Turkmenistan, lying at the northern foot of the Kopetdag mountains on the southern edge of the Karakum Desert, just about 25 km from the Iranian border. After the 1948 earthquake the city was almost entirely rebuilt, and after independence it was uniformly clad in white marble, earning Guinness recognition as the city with the highest density of white marble buildings. Golden statues, fountains and wide boulevards create a unique and slightly surreal cityscape. The climate is classic continental desert: summers often exceed 40°C, winters bring occasional snow, and Apr–May and Sep–Oct are the best times to travel. Sightseeing falls into three parts: in the city, the Independence Monument, the Arch of Neutrality, the Constitution Monument, the Carpet Museum and the National Museum of History can be covered in 1–2 days; on the outskirts, the Parthian Fortresses of Nisa (a World Heritage Site), Gypjak Mosque, the Anau ruins and the weekend Tolkuchka Bazaar each take half a day; farther afield, the Darvaza gas crater about 260 km north is usually visited with an overnight stay at a desert camp, while a western route leads to the Kow Ata underground lake and Geok Tepe. A Turkmen visa requires a letter of invitation arranged through a local travel agency, and a guide is usually required outside the city; on arrival you must declare foreign currency and pay an entry fee — confirm the official rules before you travel. Foreigners face restrictions on photographing government buildings, guards and military facilities, and internet controls are strict, with many foreign apps blocked. City buses are cheap, but foreigners mostly get around by taxi. Plan on 3–4 days in total.
Top sights
- Darvaza Gas Crater (Door to Hell) – A natural gas crater in the Karakum Desert that has been burning for more than half a century, blazing brightly at night. It is Turkmenista…
- Parthian Fortresses of Nisa – The early capital of the Parthian Empire (known in Chinese records as Anxi), now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where rammed-earth walls and…
- Arch of Neutrality – A tripod tower commemorating the 1995 United Nations recognition of Turkmenistan’s permanent neutrality. A golden statue of the leader stan…
- Tolkuchka Bazaar (Altyn Asyr Bazaar) – One of Central Asia’s largest open-air markets, trading carpets, felt hats, traditional robes, jewelry, camels and livestock. It is packed…
- Independence Monument – A 118-metre Independence Monument whose tower resembles a traditional tent and a crescent moon, surrounded by golden statues of Turkmen his…
- Turkmen Carpet Museum – Houses over a thousand handmade Turkmen carpets. Its treasure is a giant hand-woven carpet certified by Guinness.
- Türkmenbaşy Ruhy Mosque – A gold-domed mosque in Gypjak village, the hometown of the first president, Niyazov. It is one of the largest single-dome mosques in Centra…
- Ertuğrul Gazi Mosque – A Turkish-funded Ottoman-style mosque whose exterior closely resembles Istanbul's Blue Mosque, located in the city centre.
- Alem Cultural and Entertainment Center – A white entertainment centre that holds the Guinness-certified title of the world's largest enclosed Ferris wheel. From the wheel you can l…
- Monument to the Constitution – A white-and-gold Monument to the Constitution about 185 metres tall, one of the tallest structures in Turkmenistan, with a large fountain s…
- Halk Hakydasy Memorial Complex – A large memorial park honouring the victims of the 1948 Ashgabat earthquake, the dead of World War II and the Battle of Geok Tepe.
- National Museum of History of Turkmenistan – The country's largest museum, displaying Margiana Bronze Age artifacts, the Parthian ivory rhyton from Nisa and relics from many periods.
- Russian Bazaar (Gulistan Bazaar) – A covered market in the city centre, with stalls selling bread, dried fruit, spices, caviar and cooked food. It is a place to experience lo…
- Kow Ata Underground Lake – A natural underground hot spring lake deep in a cave at the foot of Kopet Dag, with water temperatures above 30°C year-round. Visitors can…
- Turkmenistan Tower – A TV tower about 211 metres tall on the slope of Kopet Dag, with an eight-pointed star on its body that is recognised by Guinness. A revolv…
- Palace of Happiness (Wedding Palace) – A wedding palace built from three tiered eight-pointed stars, topped by a huge globe. It is one of the most unusual buildings in Ashgabat.
- Seyit Jemaleddin Mosque, Anau – The ruins of a 15th-century mosque from the Timurid era, destroyed by the 1948 earthquake. The surviving gateway once bore a rare pair of d…
- Gökdepe Fortress & Mosque – The site of the last fortress where Turkmen resisted Tsarist Russia in 1881. A mosque named after Saparmurat Hajji stands beside the remain…
- Oguzkhan and Sons Fountain Complex – A fountain park once certified by Guinness for having the most fountains in a public place. At its centre is a golden statue of Oguz Khan…
- Walk of Health – A roughly 36-km concrete hiking trail built along the foot of Kopet Dag, with views over the city and desert. It is a popular route for loc…
- Ashgabat Flagpole – A 133-metre flagpole that was the world's tallest when it was completed in 2008. An enormous national flag flies among the white buildings.
- Ylham Park – A fountain park and tree-lined avenue in the city centre, ringed by white marble buildings. It is a good place to experience local nightlif…
- Ashgabat Cable Car – A sightseeing cable car that climbs from the foot of the southern hills to the summit of Kopet Dag, with views from the top over the white…
- Ashgabat Olympic Stadium – An Olympic stadium rebuilt for the 2017 Asian Indoor and Martial Arts Games. A huge horse-head sculpture on its roof, modelled on the Akhal…
- Magtymguly Pyragy Cultural Park – A foothill cultural park completed in 2024 to mark the 300th birth anniversary of the national poet Magtymguly, with a tall statue of the p…
- Ashgabat Botanical Garden – One of the oldest botanical gardens in Central Asia, founded in 1929. Its collections include plants from Kopet Dag and Central Asia's arid…
- Nokhur – An ancient mountain village deep in the Kopet Dag, known for its graveyard hung with wild sheep horns, its stone houses and its gorge water…
Where to eat
- Hezzet Restaurant – A Turkmen-style restaurant where you can dine on the floor or at tables inside traditional tents, perfect for family ga…
- Joshgun Palow House – A homely Turkmen eatery famous for its variety of plovs cooked fresh in large cauldrons in an open kitchen, featuring s…
- Chatma Restaurant & Lounge – A restaurant and lounge nestled in a park corner, offering a menu that blends Turkmen, Russian, and Western cuisines, w…
- Alpet Steakhouse – Claiming to be Turkmenistan's first steakhouse, it specializes in local beef dry-aged for 28 days, served in generous p…
- Uzum Cafe – A modern cafe-restaurant right next to the Ak Altyn Hotel, offering a clean, comfortable environment and generous porti…
- Sha Coffee (Ataturk Street Branch) – A local Ashgabat coffee brand highly rated by travelers for its freshly roasted coffee, also serving burgers, tacos, sa…
Itineraries
- Ashgabat, Gates of Hell, and Merv – A round trip from the capital covering the white marble city, ancient Merv, and the Darvaza gas crater.
- Merv and Margiana Archaeological Tour – Fly from the capital to Mary, focusing on the ancient city of Merv and the Bronze Age site of Gonur Depe.
- Turkmenistan Overland: Khiva to Bukhara – Enter via Shavat and exit via Farap, connecting four classic Turkmen highlights on the way to Bukhara.
- Turkmenistan Grand Flight Loop – Save time on long drives by using domestic flights to cover major sights across the north, south, east, and west.
- Overland Journey Across Turkmenistan: Khiva to Bukhara – Enter via Shavat and exit via Farap, incorporating the Caspian canyons, mountain villages, and Gonur Depe into the over…