Hokkaido

Japan's largest northern island, a single prefecture that is also a region of its own: flower fields and lakes in summer, powder snow and drift ice in winter, with Sapporo, Hakodate, Furano and Shiretoko each offering its own character.

This region covers all of Hokkaido, which stands alone as one of Japan's nine regions. It is divided into 14 subprefectures, and for travel purposes is often split further into four areas: Dōō (central), Dōnan (south), Dōhoku (north) and Dōtō (east). The Northern Territories (the four northern islands) are outside the normal travel range.

Highlights: Sapporo's Odori Park, Tanukikoji shopping street and Snow Festival; the Otaru Canal and glass workshops; the hills and Blue Pond of Biei, the lavender fields of Furano, Asahiyama Zoo and Sounkyo Gorge in the Daisetsuzan range; the night view from Mt. Hakodate and Goryokaku; Lake Toya, Lake Shikotsu and the Noboribetsu Jigokudani hot springs; Niseko's powder snow. In the east are the Shiretoko Peninsula (a World Natural Heritage Site), the icebreaker cruises at Abashiri, Lake Akan and Lake Mashu, and the red-crowned cranes of Kushiro Marsh; at the northern tip you can climb on the islands of Rishiri and Rebun.

Classic itineraries: for a first visit, Sapporo–Otaru–Noboribetsu/Lake Toya–Hakodate in 5–6 days; in summer, Sapporo–Biei/Furano–Asahikawa in 3–4 days; a self-drive through eastern Hokkaido, Shiretoko–Akan–Kushiro, in 4–5 days; and in winter, skiing at Niseko or a drift-ice tour each take 4–5 days. For an in-depth tour of the whole island, allow 10–14 days.

Getting around: New Chitose Airport is the gateway, with additional airports at Hakodate, Asahikawa, Kushiro, Memanbetsu and elsewhere. The Hokkaido Shinkansen links Honshu to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto. The JR Hokkaido Rail Pass suits travel between cities, but eastern and northern Hokkaido are vast and sparsely populated, so driving gives the most freedom.

Notes: distances between cities are long, so do not underestimate drive times; in winter, icy roads and service suspensions from heavy snow are common, and driving on snow requires experience; during the summer flower season and the Snow Festival, book accommodation well in advance.

Destinations

Itineraries