Carretera Austral & Caleta Tortel Loop
A self-drive loop starting and ending in Balmaceda, heading north to the hanging glacier and south to the wooden boardwalk village of Caleta Tortel.
This loop covers the highlights of the middle section of the Carretera Austral: the hanging glacier in Puyuhuapi, the Marble Caves, Patagonia National Park, and the roadless village of Caleta Tortel. South of Puerto Río Tranquilo, the roads are mostly gravel, making travel slower, so the itinerary includes built-in flexibility. Returning the rental car to the same location is cheaper than a one-way rental and avoids the northern ferry crossings, which is why the section north of Pumalín is omitted. Ideal for travelers with self-drive experience who are comfortable with rustic accommodations.
Accommodations along the route are limited, so book early for the summer. Note that some car rental insurance policies do not cover gravel roads.
Day by day
Day 1 · Land in Coyhaique
Coyhaique & Carretera Austral（Coyhaique Plaza de Armas、Aysén Regional Museum）
Pick up your rental car at the airport and drive about 55 km on paved roads to Coyhaique, reachable within 1 hour.
Stock up on fuel and cash here, as mobile signal is poor along the southern section.
Stay: Coyhaique Downtown
Day 2 · Head North to Puyuhuapi
Coyhaique & Carretera Austral（Simpson Valley & Río Simpson Reserve、Puerto Puyuhuapi）
Drive north along the Simpson River Valley for about 220 km. The road conditions are relatively good, taking about 4 hours.
Stay: Puyuhuapi
Day 3 · Queulat Hanging Glacier
Coyhaique & Carretera Austral（Queulat Hanging Glacier）
A 1-hour round-trip drive to the park entrance. The round-trip hike is about 6.5 km, taking 2.5 hours.
Stay: Puyuhuapi
Day 4 · Return to Coyhaique
Coyhaique & Carretera Austral（Coyhaique National Reserve）
Drive south for about 220 km (approx. 4 hours). Spend the afternoon on a short walk in the reserve on the outskirts of the city.
Stay: Coyhaique Downtown
Day 5 · Cross the Mountains to Lake General Carrera
Coyhaique & Carretera Austral → Puerto Río Tranquilo (Marble Caves)（Bahía Murta）
Drive south for about 225 km, with the second half on gravel roads, taking about 5 hours to reach Puerto Río Tranquilo.
Stay: Puerto Río Tranquilo Village
Day 6 · Marble Caves & Exploradores Valley
Puerto Río Tranquilo (Marble Caves)（Marble Caves (Capillas de Mármol)、Lake Tranquilo、Cascada La Nutria (Exploradores Valley)）
Take a 1.5-hour speedboat tour in the morning. In the afternoon, drive west along the gravel road of the Exploradores Valley and return.
Boat departures depend on wind conditions; morning light is best. Ice trekking on the Exploradores Glacier is no longer recommended.
Stay: Puerto Río Tranquilo Village
Day 7 · Baker River & Chacabuco Valley
Puerto Río Tranquilo (Marble Caves)（Puerto Bertrand & Lake Bertrand、Confluence of Baker and Neff Rivers） → Coyhaique & Carretera Austral（Patagonia National Park (Chile)） → Cochrane
Drive south along the gravel road for about 120 km, passing the confluence of the rivers to reach Cochrane (approx. 4 hours).
Stay: Cochrane
Day 8 · Caleta Tortel Boardwalk Village
Coyhaique & Carretera Austral（Caleta Tortel） → Cochrane
Drive about 125 km southwest of Cochrane on gravel roads (approx. 2.5 hours one way) for a day trip, returning to Cochrane.
Fill up your fuel tank in Cochrane before departing and bring your own drinking water.
Stay: Cochrane
Day 9 · Drive North along the Lake to Villa Cerro Castillo
Puerto Río Tranquilo (Marble Caves)（Puerto Guadal） → Coyhaique & Carretera Austral（General Carrera Lake）
Drive north for about 300 km, mostly on gravel roads, taking about 7 hours. This is the longest driving day of the trip.
Stay: Cerro Castillo Village
Day 10 · Cerro Castillo Trekking
Coyhaique & Carretera Austral（Cerro Castillo National Park）
A round-trip hike from the village to the mountain lagoon takes about 8 to 9 hours. A shorter trail is available if you want to save energy.
Stay: Cerro Castillo Village
Day 11 · Return to Balmaceda
Drive north along the paved road for about 90 km (approx. 1.5 hours) to return your rental car at the airport.