Zanda

The thousand-year-old ruins of the Guge Kingdom on the Sutlej River and the Zanda earth forest, with Tholing Monastery murals and the Dungkar-Piyang caves.

Zanda lies in southwestern Ngari Prefecture, Tibet, in the Sutlej (Xiangquan) River valley on the northern slopes of the Himalayas. The county seat, Tholing Town, sits at about 3,700 m, roughly 250 km from the prefectural capital, Shiquanhe, and about 230 km from Darchen, the base for Mount Kailash. This was the heartland of the Guge Kingdom from the 10th to 17th centuries. The Zanda Basin, formed from ancient lake sediments carved by running water, has an earth forest of eroded formations stretching over thousands of square kilometers. Its citadels, stupas and cliff-like landforms set against the Sutlej River have earned it the name "land of the earth forest."

The main sights cluster around the county seat. About 18 km west of town are the Guge Kingdom ruins (Tsaparang), preserving the Red Temple and White Temple murals and a citadel built into the mountain. At the edge of town, Tholing Monastery, the first Buddhist monastery in Ngari, has a stupa forest with a beautiful sunset. About 40 km to the north, the Dungkar and Piyang caves form the largest cave complex in Tibet. The road into Zanda from Darchen or Shiquanhe winds through earth-forest gullies and is a scenic drive in itself.

The best season is May–October, with June–September the most reliable; in winter and spring, snow on the passes may close the road. A border-area permit must be arranged in advance to enter Ngari. Altitude sickness is pronounced, so acclimatize first in Lhasa or Shigatse, then travel via the Kailash route.

Plan on 2 days: one for the Guge ruins (ideally at sunrise or sunset), and one for Tholing Monastery and Dungkar-Piyang. Lodging and dining in the county seat are limited and should be booked in advance in peak season, and you should stock up on fuel and cash beforehand.

Top sights

Where to eat

Itineraries