Yuxian

The "Land of Ancient Forts", dense with Ming–Qing fortified villages and opera stages, where Nuanquan's molten-iron "tree flowers" shower sparks, and the Sky Grassland and Mount Xiaowutai offer cool summer hikes.

Yuxian lies in southwestern Zhangjiakou, Hebei, in the Huliu River basin, with the Sanggan River to the north and the Taihang Mountains and Mount Xiaowutai to the south. It is a National Famous Historical and Cultural City. More than 800 Ming- and Qing-era forts once stood here, earning it the name "Land of Ancient Forts"; Nuanquan's dashuhua (molten-iron "tree flowers") and Yuxian paper-cutting are both national intangible cultural heritage.

The area divides roughly into three parts. First, Yuzhou Ancient City in the county seat, where the Jade Emperor Pavilion, Shijia Temple, Nan'an Temple Pagoda, Lingyan Temple and the Changping Granary are clustered and can be seen on foot in half a day; south of town are the Yuzhou Museum and the paper-cutting village of Nanzhangzhuang. Second, Nuanquan Ancient Town, about 13 km west of the county seat, centred on Xigubao, Beiguanbao, Huayan Temple and the old academy — come on Spring Festival nights to see the tree flowers. Third, the southern mountains, reached through Feihu Gorge, one of the Eight Passes of the Taihang, up to the Sky Grassland, with the Jinhekou scenic area of Mount Xiaowutai to the southeast. Fortified villages such as Songjiazhuang, Shangsuzhuang, Nanliuzhuang and Kaiyangbao are ideal for linking up by car.

Best seasons: around Spring Festival for the tree flowers and shehuo folk performances, when temperatures often drop to well below −10°C; Jul–Aug for cool air on the Sky Grassland and Mount Xiaowutai; Sep–Oct for the best autumn colours. Getting there: about 3 hours' drive from Beijing, or take a train or coach to Zhangjiakou and transfer; sights are spread out, so a car or hired driver is recommended. Allow 2–3 days. The Sky Grassland closes in winter and crossing the Xiaowutai reserve is strictly prohibited; check scenic area notices before you go.

Top sights

• Nuanquan Ancient Town – A thousand-year-old town about 13 kilometres west of Yu County, with its intact layout of three forts, six lanes, and eighteen camps. It is…
• Xigubao Fort – The best-preserved fort in Nuanquan Ancient Town, with rare north and south barbicans. Temples and residences are densely packed inside.
• Nuanquan Dashuhua Molten Iron Show – Performers pour molten iron onto ancient fort walls, where the sparks burst out like a blossoming tree crown. It is a national intangible c…
• Yuzhou Ancient City – The old town of Yu County, a nationally recognised historic and cultural city. Its walls, Yuhuang Pavilion, Nan'an Temple Pagoda, and histo…
• Kongzhong Grassland – An alpine meadow more than 2,000 metres above sea level. In summer, it is covered in wildflowers and sea-of-clouds sunrises, and it is a we…
• Beiguanbao Fort – One of the three Nuanquan forts, with well-preserved gate and opera stage. A must-see old fort near the area where Dashuhua 'tree blossom'…
• Nuanquan Huayan Temple – A Ming-Qing temple in the center of Nuanquan, next to Nuanquan Academy and Kuixing Pavilion, forming the core complex of the old town.
• Yuhuang Pavilion – A Ming pavilion towering over the north city wall of ancient Yuzhou, with exquisite Qing murals inside and views over the whole town.
• Shijia Temple – A Yuan-dynasty temple inside ancient Yuzhou, whose main hall preserves Yuan timber structures and is among the oldest buildings in the old…
• Nan'an Temple Pagoda – A Liao-dynasty multi-eaved brick pagoda with thirteen stories in ancient Yuzhou, about 30 meters tall and a landmark of the county skyline.
• Lingyan Temple – A Yuan-Ming temple in the northwest of ancient Yuzhou with a grand main hall, now converted into the Five Grains Culture Museum.
• Yuzhou Granary – The former Ming-era state granary used to stabilize grain prices. Its granary buildings, granary-god temple, and opera stage are well prese…
• Yuzhou Museum – A comprehensive museum in the south of the county, with the permanent exhibition Long Song of Dai and Yu covering history from the Dai stat…
• Nanzhangzhuang Paper-cutting Village – One of the birthplaces of Yuxian paper-cutting, where families make dot-colored paper cuts. Workshops are open for visits and hands-on expe…
• Songjiazhuang Theater Stage – A pass-through opera stage built on the central axis of a fortified village. You can walk underneath it, and it represents the best of Yuxi…
• Shangsuzhuang Village – A Ming-era fortified village built against a hillside, with its gate, opera stage, and one-fort-three-temples layout well preserved. A popu…
• Nanliuzhuang Village – A representative fortified village where the Men family courtyards, the Taishan Temple opera stage, and rammed-earth walls show the look of…
• Daiwangcheng Site – The ruins of the capital of the Dai state from the Warring States period to the Han dynasty, with rammed-earth wall fragments stretching ac…
• Chongtai Temple – An ancient temple built on the northern hillside of Yongquan Village, with halls rising tier upon tier up the slope. One of the largest tem…
• Xiaowutai Mountain – A national nature reserve home to Hebei's highest peak. The Jinhekou scenic area offers gorge streams and autumn foliage.
• Feihu Gorge – Feihu Pass, one of the ancient Eight Passes of Taihang, is a winding gorge more than 20 km long and the essential route to the Aerial Grass…
• Kaiyang Fort – A thousand-year-old fortified village in Yangyuan County, with its nine-palace grid of lanes intact. A representative fort of the Sanggan R…

Where to eat

• Hehelou Old Restaurant – The best-known local restaurant in Yuxian's county town. Its premium four small bowls, blanched lamb and coarse-grain h…
• Sanhetai Restaurant – An old restaurant opposite the north gate of the West Ancient Fort in Nuanquan Ancient Town, with a guesthouse behind i…

Itineraries

• Yu County Ancient Castles & Grassland Sky Road – Drive north from Yu County's ancient castles to Zhangjiakou, then take the eastern section of the Grassland Sky Road to…