Yuncheng
Hometown of Guan Yu, with the Guandi Temple in Xiezhou, Stork Tower, the Yongle Palace murals and Yuncheng Salt Lake, "China's Dead Sea" – all much more popular since appearing as locations in Black Myth: Wukong.
Yuncheng lies at the southern tip of Shanxi Province, in the southeast corner of the Yellow River's great "Ji"-shaped bend, facing Shaanxi and Henan across the river. Known in ancient times as Hedong, it is the hometown of Guan Yu and one of the key birthplaces of Chinese civilization (both Shun's capital Puban and Yu's capital Anyi lie within its borders). Salt has been produced at Yuncheng Salt Lake for thousands of years, and the city's name itself comes from "the city of salt transport".
There are three main routes. Around the city: Yuncheng Salt Lake (the colorful salt ponds and Dead Sea–style floating) and the Guandi Temple in Xiezhou, both about 20 km from downtown. Southwest toward Yongji: Stork Tower, Pujiu Temple, the Pujin Ferry ruins (with their Tang dynasty iron oxen of the Yellow River) and Wulao Peak in the Zhongtiao Mountains. South to Ruicheng: the Yuan dynasty murals of Yongle Palace, with Yellow River scenery along the way. North to Wanrong: the Autumn Wind Pavilion at the Houtu Temple, Feiyun Tower at the Dongyue Temple, and the Li Family Compound, a Shanxi merchant mansion. Allow 3–4 days in total.
Getting there: high-speed trains from Yuncheng North Station reach Xi'an (about 1.5 hours) and Taiyuan (about 2.5 hours), and Yuncheng Salt Lake Airport has flights to major cities. Sights are scattered across Yongji, Ruicheng, Wanrong and other counties with infrequent public transport, so self-drive or hire a car. Spring and autumn are the best seasons; in summer (Jun–Sep) high temperatures and strong evaporation make the salt lake's colors most vivid – ideal for aerial photography (drones must follow local no-fly rules). Local food to try: Yuncheng mutton paomo, Wenxi zhubing (boiled cakes) and Yongji beef dumplings.
Top sights
- Xiezhou Guandi Temple – The largest and highest-ranking Guandi Temple still standing, the homeland of Guan Yu and known as the 'Ancestor of Martial Temples', with…
- Stork Tower (Guanque Lou) – A famous tower immortalized by Wang Zhihuan's poem 'Climbing the Stork Tower'. The current tower is a 2002 reconstruction in Tang style, an…
- Yongle Palace – A Yuan-dynasty Taoist temple complex whose Yuan murals, including the 'Assembly of Immortals', are considered a pinnacle of ancient Chinese…
- Yuncheng Salt Lake – An inland saltwater lake known as 'China's Dead Sea', whose salt ponds turn into colorful patches from algae and minerals, making for stunn…
- Pujiu Temple – The setting of The Romance of the Western Chamber. Its Yingying Pagoda is famous for its echo effect and is regarded as a landmark of Chine…
- Wanrong Houtu Temple – The ancestral temple for worshipping the earth deity Houtu in China. Emperor Wu of Han composed the “Ode to the Autumn Wind” here, and the…
- Feiyun Tower, Wanrong Dongyue Temple – A Ming dynasty all-timber pavilion about 23 meters tall with 32 upturned eave corners. Its light, soaring form makes it a favorite among ar…
- Li Family Compound (Yanjing) – A group of Shanxi merchant courtyard homes in Yanjing Village, Wanrong, with finely carved brick decoration and a Sino-Western mansion. It…
- Wulao Peak – A Taoist mountain on the western section of the Zhongtiao Mountains. Five peaks stand side by side, and you can take a cable car up and wal…
- Mausoleum and Temple of Emperor Shun – The mausoleum and temple of Emperor Shun north of Yuncheng, with towering ancient cypresses. It is a representative relic of ancient cultur…
- Changping Guandi Family Temple – The family temple of Guan Yu in Changping Village, his ancestral home, built on the site of his ancestral residence and featuring an ancest…
- Pujin Ferry Site & Tang Iron Oxen – The site of a Yellow River ferry crossing outside the ancient Puzhou city wall. The four Tang dynasty bronze oxen and iron figures cast her…
- Sima Guang Shrine and Tombs – The family tombs and shrine of Sima Guang in Xia County. It features a stele with the inscription “Loyalty, Purity and Virtue” carved by Em…
- Guangren Wang Temple (Five Dragons Temple) – A small Tang dynasty timber temple next to Yongle Palace in Ruicheng. It is one of only a few surviving Tang timber buildings in China and…
- Ruicheng City God Temple – A Song dynasty City God Temple in the Ruicheng county seat. Its main hall retains Song timber structure, and it has Yuan, Ming, and Qing st…
- Dayudu Scenic Area – An ancient ferry on the Yellow River bank in Ruicheng. Legend says Yu the Great controlled floodwaters here. It has an ancient thousand-yea…
- Shengtian Lake – A wetland lake on the Yellow River floodplain in Ruicheng. Lotus flowers bloom in summer, and in winter, whooper swans fly in from the nort…
- Jiangzhou Old Town, Xinjiang – The old town of Jiangzhou in Xinjiang County, with a Yuan dynasty prefectural hall, the Sui dynasty garden Jiangshouju Garden and Pools, an…
- Qinglong Temple, Jishan – A Yuan dynasty temple in Jishan County with Yuan Shuilu murals covering its middle and rear halls. It is a fine example of Shanxi mural art.
- Yuncheng Museum – A general museum in downtown Yuncheng that traces Hedong history from prehistory to the Ming and Qing dynasties. Its exhibits on salt cultu…
Where to eat
- Jiezhou Guixiang Pulled Noodles – Pulled-noodle shop beside Yuncheng Hotel, open for about forty years, with bowls costing around RMB 10; many locals hav…
Itineraries
- Southern Shanxi: Murals, Painted Sculptures & Yellow River Heritage – Travel south from Linfen to Yuncheng to see Guangsheng Temple, Xiaoxitian, Yongle Palace, and Guandi Temple.
- Grand Shanxi Loop: The Ultimate Ancient Architecture Tour – A comprehensive loop from Taiyuan through northern, central, southern, and southeastern Shanxi, covering all the provin…