Yulin (Shaanxi)

The "Pearl beyond the Great Wall": Yulin's old town, Zhenbeitai—the first great tower of the Great Wall—the Hongshi Gorge cliff carvings, Jingbian's Wave Valley and the ruins of Tongwan City.

Yulin lies at the northern tip of Shaanxi, bordering Ordos in Inner Mongolia to the north and facing Shanxi across the Yellow River to the east. Set in the transition zone between the Mu Us Desert and the Loess Plateau and crossed by the Ming Great Wall, it is a National Historical and Cultural City long known as the "Pearl beyond the Great Wall". The climate is dry; Jun–Oct is the best time to visit, with cool summer mornings and evenings, while winter and spring are cold, windy and dusty.

Areas: ① The city—Yulin Old Town with its six towers straddling the main street, Lingxiao Pagoda and the Northern Shaanxi Folk Song Museum; Zhenbeitai, Hongshi Gorge and Yima Fort on the northern outskirts can be combined in half a day. ② Jingbian and Hengshan to the southwest—the Wave Valley danxia landforms and the ruins of Tongwan City, passing Boluo Fort, as a day trip. ③ Shenmu to the north—Hongjiannao Lake, the Shimao archaeological site and the old town of Gaojiabu. ④ Mizhi to the south—Mizhi Old Town, Li Zicheng's Palace, the Jiang Family Manor and Yangjiagou.

Getting there: Yulin Yuyang Airport has flights to Xi'an, Beijing, Shanghai and elsewhere; the Baotou–Xi'an Railway runs north–south, with trains stopping at Yulin, Mizhi and Suide. The areas are 70–110 km apart, so self-drive or a hired car is recommended; use the city as your base and allow 3–4 days. Local food includes pinsanxian (a mixed stew), tofu, mutton offal soup, Hengshan lamb and Mizhi donkey sausage. Tips: in the desert and danxia areas, protect yourself from the sun and stay hydrated; climbing on the rock at Wave Valley is prohibited; most museums are closed on Mondays.

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