Yufuin

A hot spring town at the foot of Mount Yufu, with small shops lining Yunotsubo Street. Morning mist drifts over Lake Kinrin, and visitors arrive on the Yufuin no Mori sightseeing train and soak in outdoor baths at their ryokan.

Yufuin lies in Yufuin-chō, Yufu City, Oita Prefecture. It is a basin at the foot of Mount Yufu, about 25 km west of Beppu, and has one of the highest hot spring outputs in Japan. Unlike Beppu's 'Hells' and its large hotels, Yufuin has been led since the 1970s by several old ryokan. It has refused to build high-rises or large facilities, and its style combines rural, forest-set detached inns with small shops. This makes it one of the hot spring towns most favored by Japanese women travelers.

The main sightseeing area is Yunotsubo Street, about 1 km between Yufuin Station and Lake Kinrin, lined with general stores, dessert shops, and small art museums. Early-morning mist over Lake Kinrin, the Unagihime Shrine south of the station, and walks through the rice fields are classic sights. For a panoramic view of the basin, go to Nagirigadai on the mountainside to the east. For a secluded hot spring, try Tsukahara Onsen, or visit the old street of Yunohira Onsen to the southwest. For Lake Kinrin, Mount Yufu, and other sights, see the 'Beppu & Yufuin' entry.

The best season: early mornings from October to February are when fog is most likely, and November brings autumn foliage. Spring is good for climbing Mount Yufu when it turns green, and hot springs can be enjoyed all year round. Getting there: from Hakata Station, the JR limited express 'Yufuin no Mori' sightseeing train takes about 2 hours and 15 minutes (all seats are reserved, so book in advance), or a highway bus takes about 2 hours. From Beppu, a bus takes about 50 minutes. Plan to stay one night in a ryokan to enjoy outdoor baths and kaiseki meals, and one day is enough for daytime sightseeing. Note that daytime tour groups are large and the main street gets crowded, so walk early in the morning or in the evening. Most shops close around 5–6 p.m.

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