Youyang

The thousand-year-old town of Gongtan with its stilt houses on the Wu River, plus Youyang's Peach Blossom Land, Huatian rice terraces, Tujia villages along the You River, and the Tujia hand-waving dance.

Youyang Tujia and Miao Autonomous County lies in the far southeast of Chongqing, in the Wuling Mountains, bordering Hunan to the east and Guizhou to the south. It is Chongqing's largest district or county by area, and most residents are Tujia or Miao; the Tujia hand-waving dance (baishouwu) is listed as national intangible cultural heritage. The climate is mild and humid: peach and rapeseed blossoms bloom in March–April, and the crisp autumn days of September–November are the best time to visit. River valleys get hot in midsummer, when you can escape to the Changpu Grassland.

Areas to explore: ① Around the county town — the top-rated (5A) Youyang Peach Blossom Land and Youzhou Ancient Town, plus the Banxi Stone Flower Valley; the easiest area to reach; ② Along the Wu River in the west — Gongtan Ancient Town and the Apeng River; stay a night to enjoy the riverside at night, and take a boat through the Wu River Gallery; ③ The northern highlands — the Huatian terraces at Hejiayan and the Changpu Grassland, best by car; ④ The You River in the east — Houxi Ancient Town (now Youshuihe Town), Hewan Village and Longtan Ancient Town, with the greatest concentration of Tujia stilt houses.

Getting there: Youyang Station on the Chongqing–Huaihua Railway has bullet trains to Chongqing and Huaihua, and the Chongqing–Hunan Expressway runs the length of the county, with exits at Gongtan, Banxi and elsewhere. Sights are scattered and public transport is infrequent, so self-driving or hiring a car with driver is recommended. Allow 3–4 days: one for the county town, one for Gongtan, one for Huatian and the grassland, and one for the You River area. Tips: mountain roads are winding and often foggy, so avoid driving at night; ask permission before photographing people in ethnic minority villages.

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