Yonaguni

Japan's westernmost island, where on exceptionally clear days you can see Taiwan; famous for its underwater ruins and winter schools of hammerhead sharks, with Irizaki, Tachigami Rock, the Agarizaki cliffs and free-roaming Yonaguni horses around the island.

Yonaguni is Japan's westernmost island, part of the Yaeyama Islands in Okinawa Prefecture. About 27 km around, it lies only about 111 km from Taiwan — closer than Ishigaki Island — and on a handful of exceptionally clear days a year you can make out Taiwan's mountains. The island's three villages, Sonai, Kubura and Higawa, are home to about 1,700 people and preserve a distinctive dialect, weaving tradition and ritual culture.

Getting around: the island is small and public transport is scarce, so rent a car or e-bike to circle it; a loop by car takes about 1 hour. At the western tip, Irizaki has the monument marking Japan's westernmost point and Kubura fishing port; the south coast has Tachigami Rock, Higawa Beach and the filming location for Dr. Koto's Clinic; at the eastern tip, Agarizaki is a grassy cape where Yonaguni horses graze freely; the Sanninudai cliffs lie to the southeast; and Sonai village on the north coast has Tindabana and Nanta Beach. Out at sea, the stars are the "Yonaguni Monument" underwater ruins off the south coast and the schools of hammerhead sharks that gather off Irizaki from December to March, drawing divers from all over the world.

Getting there: it's about 30 minutes by plane from Ishigaki or about 1.5 hours on a direct flight from Naha; a ferry also runs from Ishigaki to Kubura Port, taking about 4 hours one way with only a few sailings a week, and the seas are rough, so seasickness is common. Seasons: winter is for diving with hammerheads; May–Oct brings calmer seas, good for touring the island and swimming, but Jul–Sep is typhoon season, when ferries and flights may be canceled. Plan on 2–3 days. Tips: shops, restaurants and gas stations are few and keep short hours, so book accommodation and rental cars well in advance in peak season; most clifftop viewpoints have no railings, so keep away from the edge on windy days.

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