Yigong & Tongmai

Yigong Lake and the Yigong Tea Plantation near Tongmai on the Sichuan–Tibet Highway — highland tea gardens ringed by snow peaks and glaciers, plus the Parlung Tsangpo gorge, in one of Tibet's wettest hidden corners.

Yigong & Tongmai lies in western Bomê County, Nyingchi, Tibet, in the deep gorges where the Parlung Tsangpo meets the Yigong Tsangpo; National Highway 318 (the southern Sichuan–Tibet route) passes through. Warm, moist air from the Indian Ocean flows north up the Yarlung Tsangpo valley, making this one of the wettest parts of Tibet: the valley floor sits at only around 2,000 m and is covered in subtropical to temperate forest, while overhead rise the permanently snow-capped peaks of the eastern Nyenchen Tanglha range. There are three main areas. First, around Tongmai: the "Tongmai Death Zone" that once terrified Sichuan–Tibet truck drivers, the Pailong cliffs, the Tongmai Bridge and the Yigong National Geopark exhibition hall. Since the Tongmai Grand Bridge and its tunnels opened, the road is no longer dangerous and you can safely pull over to admire the gorge. Second, Yigong Township about 20–30 km to the north: Yigong Lake, formed when a massive landslide dammed the river in 2000, Tibet's largest tea plantation, the Yigong Tea Plantation, and the General's House. Third, toward Bomê to the east: Guxiang Lake, the Gangxiang spruce forest, Galang Wetland and, in spring, Bomê's Peach Blossom Valley. Best seasons: Mar–Apr for peach blossoms, and Sep–Nov for autumn colors and the clearest views of the snow peaks; Jun–Aug is the rainy season, with frequent mudslides and landslides, and the Yigong branch road may be cut off. Getting there: from Nyingchi (Mainling Airport) it is about 5 hours east along the G318 to Tongmai, or about 3 hours from Lunang; Yigong Township is on a branch road north of Tongmai. Stay in Zhamo, the Bomê county seat; Yigong and Tongmai have a few guesthouses. Allow 1–2 days; it is often combined with Lunang, Rawok Lake and Midui Glacier on a Sichuan–Tibet road trip. Note: mountain weather on the plateau changes quickly, so check conditions on the G318 and the Yigong road before setting out; entry to Tibet requires the proper permits; stop only in safe spots along the way and do not linger in rockfall zones.

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