Yamanouchi

Home of Jigokudani Monkey Park, where snow monkeys bathe in hot springs. Shibu Onsen's stone-paved street offers nine outdoor baths, and Shiga Kogen skiing and the SORA Terrace atop Ryūōzan each have their own appeal.

Yamanouchi Town lies in northeastern Nagano Prefecture, about 25 km east of Nagano City. Its territory stretches from the hot-spring villages of Yudanaka and Shibu Onsen in the Yomase River valley to the Shiga Kogen plateau above 2,000 m. All of it is part of Joshinetsu Kogen National Park. The area divides into two parts. At the foot of the mountain, Yudanaka and Shibu Onsen serve as the base for accommodation. Multi-story wooden inns line Shibu's stone-paved street, where guests can use a key to visit nine outdoor baths. Upstream, Jigokudani Monkey Park is world-famous for its snow monkeys bathing in hot springs, and it is the main draw for most visitors. Up on the mountain, Shiga Kogen is one of Japan's largest ski areas in winter. In summer and autumn, you can hike around lakes such as Ōnuma, Kitado Pond and Hasu Pond, and ride the Yokotedake and Higashidate cable cars for views. On the north side, the SORA Terrace at the summit of Ryūōzan's ski park has become famous in recent years for its sea of clouds. Best seasons: December–March is the classic time for snow monkeys and skiing, though the Jigokudani trail is snowy, so wear non-slip footwear. Early to mid-October brings autumn foliage to Shiga Kogen. July–August is cool, ideal for highland hiking and escaping the heat. Getting there: from Tokyo, take the Hokuriku Shinkansen about 1.5 hours to Nagano Station, then the Nagano Electric Railway express for about 45 minutes to the terminus at Yudanaka Station. In winter, direct buses run from Nagano Station to Jigokudani and Shiga Kogen. The Shiga-Kusatsu Road (National Route 292) is closed in winter. In summer and autumn, you can drive over Shibu Pass to Kusatsu. Suggested stay: 1–2 days for hot springs and snow monkeys, plus 2–3 days for skiing or hiking at Shiga Kogen. Note: the outdoor baths at Shibu Onsen are for guests only. The monkey park prohibits feeding and touching the monkeys, and selfie sticks are not allowed.

Top sights

• Jigokudani Monkey Park – The only place in the world where wild Japanese macaques bathe in hot springs. The winter "snow monkey" bathing scene is famous worldwide.
• SORA terrace (Ryuoo Ski Park) – Ride a large 166-passenger gondola up to 1,770 metres and watch the clouds and sunset over the Northern Alps from the terrace.
• Shiga Kōgen – One of Japan's largest ski areas, with 18 resorts linked by a single lift pass. In summer and autumn it is a top destination for hiking amo…
• Shibu & Yudanaka Onsen – The hot-spring town where snow monkeys are visited. Shibu Onsen's stone-paved streets are lined with old wooden inns, and guests can bathe…
• Mount Yokote – One of the highest peaks in the Shiga Kōgen area at 2,307 metres. Ride a chairlift to the summit for views of the Northern Alps and the clo…
• Ōnuma Pond – The largest lake in Shiga Kōgen. Its acidic volcanic waters glow cobalt blue and emerald green, and legends of a black dragon surround it…
• Higashidateyama Alpine Botanical Garden – Take the Higashidateyama cable car to a hilltop garden at about 2,000 metres, where hundreds of alpine plants bloom in summer, with views o…

Where to eat

• Tamagawa Handmade Soba & Udon Main Branch – A third-generation handmade soba shop on Shibu Onsen’s main street, grinding contract-grown buckwheat in a stone mill e…
• HAKKO Yamanouchi – A dining bar in a converted old building in front of Yudanaka Station, serving creative dishes made with Shinshu fermen…

Itineraries

• Shinshu Snow Monkey, Onsen & Powder Snow – A winter route starting from Nagano to see the snow monkeys, staying in Shibu Onsen and Nozawa, and ending with skiing…
• Grand Kanto & Shinshu Loop – A loop from Tokyo covering Hakone, Mt. Fuji, Matsumoto, Kamikochi, the Snow Monkeys, Kusatsu, and Karuizawa.
• Tokyo, Hokuriku, Takayama & Kyoto Northern Route – Skip the Tokaido route and travel via Karuizawa, Nagano, Kanazawa, Shirakawa-go, and Takayama to Kyoto.