Xunhua

The Yellow River valley homeland of the Salar people, with the legendary Camel Spring, the alpine lake of Mengda Tianchi and the red cliffs of Jishi Gorge, where you can raft the clear-water stretch of the Yellow River.

Xunhua Salar Autonomous County lies in eastern Qinghai at the southern tip of Haidong, with the Yellow River flowing west to east through it; it is the only Salar autonomous county in China. The county seat, Jishi Town, sits at about 1,900 m and enjoys one of the mildest climates in Qinghai. It is known for its slender chili peppers, walnuts and Sichuan peppercorns, earning it the nickname “Qinghai's Little Jiangnan”. The main route follows the Yellow River: west of town, Jiezi Town has the Camel Spring from the legend of the Salar people's migration east, and the Jiezi Grand Mosque, the Salar ancestral mosque; east of town, the river enters Jishi Gorge, where red danxia cliffs hem in the emerald “clear Yellow River” — perfect for summer rafting. Along the way is the Ming-dynasty wooden Mengda Mosque, and across the river, up in the southern hills, lies Mengda Tianchi. In the south, Wendu Tibetan Township is home to Wendu Monastery and the former residence of the 10th Panchen Lama; following Jishi Gorge east for about 40 km brings you to the Lajia site in Minhe. The best seasons are April for apricot blossoms and Jun–Sep. Getting there: Xining to Xunhua is about 2.5 hours by road, with regular buses; sights are scattered, so self-driving or hiring a car is recommended. Allow 2 days, and try Salar hand-held mutton, youjiaotuan (a savory grain dish) and Xunhua's “wanzi” stewed bowls. The Salar people are Muslim, so please respect their dietary and religious customs and dress modestly when entering mosques.

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