Xuchang

The old Cao Wei capital, where Chancellor Cao's Mansion, Chunqiu Tower and Baling Bridge bring the Three Kingdoms to life; Yuzhou's Jun imperial kilns and Shenhou Ancient Town have fired pottery for a thousand years, and Yanling's flower capital and the Pang Dong Lai stores round out a visit.

Xuchang lies in central Henan. At the end of the Eastern Han dynasty, Cao Cao brought Emperor Xian here and made Xu his capital, turning it into the political centre from which he "held the emperor hostage to command the nobles" and one of the five capitals of Cao Wei. Today it is a National Historical and Cultural City, with Three Kingdoms stories all over town. To the west, Yuzhou is the capital of Jun porcelain and was a major medicinal-herb trading centre in the Ming and Qing; to the east, Yanling is known as "China's Hometown of Flowers and Trees". One day in the city: Chancellor Cao's Mansion in the Cao Wei Old Town, Chunqiu Tower and Wenfeng Pagoda can be linked on foot or by short taxi rides; at Baling Bridge in the western suburbs, Guan Yu is said to have taken his leave of Cao Cao by lifting a gifted robe on his blade. Then visit the Xuchang Museum and the Pang Dong Lai Angel City store, followed by an evening cruise on the city moat. Three Kingdoms fans can add half a day for the ruins of the Han–Wei capital of Xu at Zhangpan and the Abdication Terrace in Linying. One day around Yuzhou: in the morning, the Jun Imperial Kiln Site Museum and Huaibang Guild Hall in Yuzhou's old town; in the afternoon, Shenhou Ancient Town to watch Jun porcelain kiln openings and try your hand at pottery, with Dahongzhai as an option for hikers. Half a day to a full day in Yanling: admire the flowers at the flower and tree expo garden and soak in the Huadu hot springs in the evening. The best seasons are Apr–May and Sep–Oct; winter is cold, but Dec–Feb brings wintersweet blossoms in Yanling. Getting there: Xuchang East on the Beijing–Guangzhou high-speed line is about 20 minutes from Zhengzhou and about 3 hours from Beijing; Yuzhou, Shenhou and Yanling require self-drive, a chartered car or a regular bus. Allow 2–3 days.

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