Xalapa
The capital of Veracruz state, a misty mountain city home to Mexico's second-largest anthropology museum, easily combined with the coffee town of Coatepec and nearby waterfalls and canyons.
Xalapa (also spelled Jalapa) is the capital of the Mexican state of Veracruz, set at about 1,400 m on the eastern slopes of the Sierra Madre Oriental, with the Cofre de Perote volcano to the west and the Gulf of Mexico port of Veracruz about 100 km to the east. Home to the Universidad Veracruzana, it's a college town with a strong arts scene, and its humid climate and lush vegetation have earned it the nickname "City of Flowers"; the jalapeño pepper is named after it. The city's top sight is the Xalapa Museum of Anthropology, Mexico's second-largest archaeological museum, where the colossal Olmec heads are a must-see. The old town centers on Parque Juárez, the cathedral and Callejón del Diamante and is best explored on foot, while the Paseo de los Lagos and Macuiltépetl hill offer green walks. South of the city lies coffee country: the Pueblos Mágicos of Coatepec and Xico and the Texolo waterfall make an easy day trip. To the southeast, Jalcomulco is one of Mexico's best-known rafting hubs, and to the north, Naolinco is famous for leather goods and its Day of the Dead celebrations. Climate: mild year-round but often misty and drizzly (locals call it chipi-chipi). October to May is the relatively dry season, with March–May the sunniest; June–September is the rainy season with frequent afternoon showers, so bring rain gear and a jacket. Getting there: ADO buses from Mexico City's eastern bus terminal take about 4.5 hours, about 3 hours from Puebla and about 2 hours from Veracruz. The nearest airport is El Lencero (very few flights), so most visitors fly in and out via Veracruz or Mexico City. Taxis around town are cheap, and frequent minibuses serve the surrounding towns. Plan on 2–3 days: one for the museum and old town, one for the coffee towns and waterfall, and an extra day for rafting or Naolinco.
Top sights
- Xalapa Museum of Anthropology – Mexico's second-largest archaeological museum, housing seven colossal Olmec stone heads and treasures of the ancient cultures of Veracruz…
- Coatepec – A coffee capital about 15 km south of Xalapa. Its 'Magic Town' old centre has coffee estates, orchid gardens and colonial buildings.
- Texolo Waterfall – A waterfall in a gorge outside Xico, where dense greenery, cliffs and a suspension bridge make a fairytale scene. It was once a film locati…
- Parque Juárez – A downtown viewing-terrace park beside the state government building and the cathedral, with views of Cofre de Perote volcano on clear days.
- Xalapa Cathedral – A neo-Gothic cathedral built on a slope, with a floor that rises gently inside to follow the hill. It is the landmark of Xalapa's old town.
- Xico – A "magical town" in the cloud-covered mountains, known for its mole sauce, its old red-roofed white houses and the July Feast of Mary Magda…
- Jalcomulco Rafting – A river town for rafting on the Antigua River (Pescados River), and Mexico's best-known base for whitewater rafting and outdoor adventure.
- Naolinco – A hilltop magical town north of Xalapa, known for leather goods, a canyon viewpoint and Day of the Dead traditions.
- Paseo de los Lagos – A lake park south of downtown, with a tree-lined lakeside trail and a colorful "XALAPA" sign that locals love for leisure.
- Macuiltépetl Ecological Park – A forest park on an extinct volcano north of the city, with switchback trails to a summit tower offering 360-degree views over Xalapa.
- Callejón del Diamante – The most famous stone-paved pedestrian lane in the old town, lined with craft shops, cafés and small bars, and known for a local love legen…
- Francisco Javier Clavijero Botanical Garden – A research-focused botanical garden on the south side of the city, showcasing cloud forest, cycads, orchids and bromeliads, with quiet fore…
- Hacienda El Lencero – A colonial estate once owned by General Santa Anna, with 19th-century furnishings preserved inside, surrounded by lakes and ancient trees.
- Cofre de Perote – A shield volcano 4,282 metres high west of Xalapa, with a road that reaches close to the summit, views over the Gulf coastal plain and Pico…
- Pinacoteca Diego Rivera – A small art museum beneath Parque Juárez that holds dozens of paintings and drawings by Diego Rivera from different periods.
- Parque Los Tecajetes – A shaded park in a valley west of downtown, with stone bridges, spring pools and bamboo groves, offering a quiet green space in the middle…
Where to eat
- El Itacate Fonda – A traditional fonda in the old town center serving Mexican home cooking with handmade tortillas. Breakfast and set menu…
- Asadero Cien (El Tejar) – A local Xalapa grill chain. The El Tejar branch is the most recommended, and its signature arrachera is sold by weight…
- La Cava Catalana – A Spanish restaurant on Rafael Murillo Vidal Avenue, known for seafood paella and squid ink rice. Ideal for dinner gath…
- Tacos Don Marcos – A family taco stand on Clavijero Street since 1985, offering about 25 stewed fillings. A regular breakfast and lunch st…
Itineraries
- Port of Veracruz to the Coffee Highlands – From the historic gulf port to a riverside World Heritage town, then up into the cloud forests of Xalapa and coffee tow…