Wuyuan

China's most beautiful countryside: Jiangling's rapeseed-flower sea, Huangling's autumn harvest displays, Huizhou-style ancient villages and morning mist. A photography paradise in spring and autumn.

Wuyuan County lies in Shangrao in northeastern Jiangxi, bordering Huangshan in Anhui and Quzhou in Zhejiang. Historically it was one of the “one prefecture, six counties” of Huizhou Prefecture, and so preserves many Huizhou-style ancient villages of white walls and dark tiles, earning the name “China's most beautiful countryside.” The county is mostly hills and mountains, with villages scattered along valley streams, and visits follow three main routes: east, north and west. The east route (Wuyuan county seat – Likeng – Wangkou – Jiangwan – Xiaoqi – Jiangling – Huangling) is the highlight, with the rapeseed flowers, the autumn harvest displays and the most famous ancient villages all along it. The north route (Sixi Yancun – Rainbow Bridge – Qinghua – Wolong Valley at Dazhangshan – Shicheng – Likeng, the scholars' village) is quieter, with autumn maples and morning mist concentrated at Shicheng and Changxi. The west route (Wengong Mountain and Mandarin Duck Lake) is relatively off the radar. The climate is subtropical humid monsoon, and there are two key periods. The first is the rapeseed-flower season from mid-March to early April (the Jiangling terraces bloom roughly 10 Mar–5 Apr, with huge crowds at the peak). The second is the Huangling autumn harvest displays and Shicheng's red maples and morning mist from mid-November to early December. May–June is rainy; summer is hot but the streams are good for splashing around; winter is bleak but has few visitors. Getting there: Wuyuan Station is on the Hefei–Fuzhou high-speed railway and the Jiujiang–Jingdezhen–Quzhou railway, about 20 minutes from Huangshan North, about 30 minutes from Jingdezhen North, about 1.5 hours from Nanchang and about 2 hours from Hangzhou. From the county seat to the sights, you can self-drive, charter a car or take tourist buses (direct buses run to Huangling and Jiangling in peak season); self-driving saves the most time. Tickets: the Wuyuan “through ticket” costs about CNY 210, covers about 12 attractions including Likeng, Wangkou, Jiangwan, Xiaoqi, Jiangling, Sixi Yancun, Rainbow Bridge, Wolong Valley and Shicheng, and is valid for 5 days, which is great value. Huangling is ticketed separately (about CNY 145 including the cable car). We suggest 2–3 days: day 1, the east-route ancient villages and Jiangling; day 2, all day at Huangling; day 3, the north route's Rainbow Bridge, Sixi Yancun or Shicheng. Tips: roads are badly congested during flower season and National Day, and accommodation in the county seat and around Huangling should be booked several weeks ahead. For morning-mist photography, be in position before 5 am. Local specialties include Hebao red carp, steamed pork in rice flour and hu tofu.

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