West Sumba
Traditional villages with towering thatched roofs and megalithic tombs, the natural saltwater pool of Weekuri Lagoon and untouched beaches in western Sumba, one of Indonesia's last hidden corners.
West Sumba broadly refers to the West Sumba and Southwest Sumba regencies in the western part of Sumba Island, in Indonesia's East Nusa Tenggara Province. It is about 1 hour's flight from Bali, with Tambolaka Airport as the gateway; Waikabubak is the capital of West Sumba Regency. The region preserves Indonesia's most intact form of Marapu ancestral belief, and the tall, peaked thatched houses and megalithic tombs of its traditional villages are its most distinctive sight, while the coast offers the emerald Weekuri Lagoon and long stretches of untouched beach. The climate has distinct wet and dry seasons: the dry season from May–Oct, with golden grasslands and good sea conditions, is the best time to visit; during the rainy season from Nov–Apr roads deteriorate, but Feb–Mar brings the Pasola horseback festival. Sightseeing divides into three areas: around Kodi (Weekuri Lagoon, Mandorak, and the villages of Ratenggaro and Wainyapu); around Waikabubak (Tarung, Prai Ijing village, Lapopu Waterfall); and the south coast at Lamboya and Wanokaka (Marosi, Rua Beach, the Pasola grounds, Nihi Sumba). Getting around: there is almost no public transport, so hire a car with driver or rent a scooter; many roads are narrow. Plan on 3–5 days. Visitors must sign in and make a donation when entering villages, and should ask before photographing people; ATMs are scarce, so bring enough cash, plus sunscreen and insect repellent.
Top sights
- Weekuri Lagoon – A natural saltwater pool separated from the sea by limestone reefs, with crystal-clear, emerald-green water. It is the most photogenic spot…
- Ratenggaro Village – A seaside traditional Sumba village where tall, pointed thatched houses stand alongside giant stone tombs, with a view across the bay to Wa…
- Mandorak Beach – A small bay framed by two limestone cliffs, with soft white sand and crashing waves. It is close to Weekuri Lagoon, so the two are easy to…
- Wainyapu Village – A large traditional village across the river from Ratenggaro, with many pointed-roof houses and megalithic tombs. The grassland outside the…
- Pero Beach – A long sandy beach beside the Kodi fishing village of Pero, scattered with reefs. In the evening you can watch fishermen bring in their net…
- Tanjung Karoso Beach – A white sand beach beside a headland at the western tip of Sumba, where the sea shifts from pale to deep blue. Eroded rock formations and a…
- Watu Maladong Beach – A white sand beach on the southwest coast, where black rocks shaped by the sea rise out of the shallows. At low tide you can walk among the…
- Bawana Beach – A hidden white sand bay below the cliffs, where a huge natural stone arch by the sea is the signature sight. You reach it by walking down a…
- Marosi Beach – A long white sand beach on the south coast of Lamboya, with steady surf, surf camps and boutique resorts. It is the top choice for a relaxe…
- Nihi Sumba (Nihiwatu Beach) – A luxury resort on the bay that has repeatedly been named the best hotel in the world, home to the legendary left-hand wave 'God's Left'. N…
- Pasola Festival Grounds (Wanokaka) – Sumba's most famous traditional ritual, in which hundreds of riders hurl blunt wooden spears at each other across the grassland. It honours…
- Tarung Village – A traditional village on a hill in the centre of Waikabubak, the capital of West Sumba, surrounded by megalithic tombs and pointed houses…
- Praijing Village – A traditional village on a terraced hillside on the outskirts of Waikabubak, with dozens of pointed thatched houses in tiers and rice field…
- Lapopu Waterfall – A terraced waterfall in Manupeu Tanadaru National Park, where water cascades over layers of travertine rock and flows into a deep green poo…
- Waikelo Sawah Spring – Clear spring water gushes out of a cave and forms a small waterfall and pools. Locals bathe and irrigate their fields here, and the atmosph…
- Rua Beach – A wide, open white sand beach on the south coast near Wanokaka, with clear water and coconut palms along the shore. Several beach resorts n…
Where to eat
- Makan Dulu Sumba Restaurant – A teaching restaurant run by the Sumba Hospitality Foundation. Students provide service, and the menu features Indonesi…
- Gula Garam Restaurant – The highest-rated restaurant in Tambolaka, housed in a building styled after traditional Sumbanese thatched houses. A F…
- Nirru Loko Rice Paddy Restaurant – The highest-rated small restaurant in Waikabubak, with wooden cabins facing rice paddies. Its grilled chicken, boneless…
- Pondok Daun Ubi Cassava Leaf Eatery – A halal eatery on the west ring road of Waikabubak. Cassava leaf porridge is served before the meal, and the grilled ch…
Itineraries
- Sumba East-to-West Crossing – Cross Sumba from Waingapu to Tambolaka to see savannahs, waterfalls, megalithic villages, and Weekuri Lagoon.