Wanning & Lingshui

Hainan's east-coast hub for surfing and diving, with Riyue Bay, Fenjiezhou Island and Clear Water Bay, a more laid-back alternative to Sanya for a beach vacation.

Wanning and Lingshui lie on the southeast coast of Hainan Island, between Haikou and Sanya. Along the eastern line of the round-island high-speed railway you will find Shimei Bay, Shenzhou Peninsula and Riyue Bay (Wanning), then Fenjiezhou Island, Clear Water Bay and Xincun Harbor (Lingshui). In recent years they have become a more relaxed, younger-feeling beach destination than Sanya. The climate is tropical monsoon, and October to April is the peak season: the northeast monsoon brings steady swells, so Riyue Bay enters its surf season, and temperatures around 25°C are good for swimming and boat trips. May–Sep is hot and rainy with frequent typhoons, so island boats and surf lessons may be cancelled, but prices are cheaper. The main areas fall into three groups. First, the Riyue Bay–Shimei Bay area in southern Wanning, with surf clubs, hostels and seaside bookshops; the Xinglong Overseas Chinese Farm, with its coffee and tropical botanical garden, lies in the valley just to the west. Second, Fenjiezhou Island at the Wanning–Lingshui border, one of Hainan's most developed islands for diving and water activities, only 15 minutes by boat from Niuling Pier. Third, southern Lingshui: Clear Water Bay (high-end hotels and golf), Xincun Harbor (Dan fishing-raft seafood) and Nanwan Monkey Island (a macaque reserve with a sea-crossing cable car that spans the fishing rafts), right next to Sanya's Haitang Bay. Getting there: Haikou Meilan Airport and Sanya Phoenix Airport are each about 1.5 hours away by car. The round-island high-speed railway stops at Shenzhou, Wanning, Riyue Bay and Lingshui stations, and it is about 40 minutes from Sanya to Riyue Bay Station. Coastal attractions are spread out, and you still need a taxi from the train station to the bays, so we recommend a self-drive or chartered car; rental cars can be picked up at Sanya or Haikou airport. We suggest 3–4 days: 2 nights at Riyue Bay to learn to surf, 1 day at Fenjiezhou Island, and 1 day for Xincun Harbor and Clear Water Bay. Notes: waves are big at Riyue Bay in winter, so beginners must go into the water with a club instructor; Fenjiezhou Island boat and entry tickets must be bought in advance on the official mini-program, and boats stop running in typhoons and high winds; seafood on the Xincun Harbor rafts is sold by weight, so ask the price first; Xinglong coffee, Wanning Dongshan mutton, Hou'an rice noodles and Lingshui sour noodles are must-try foods; UV is strong, so bring sunscreen and after-sun care.

Top sights

Where to eat

Itineraries