Sharqiya (Wahiba Sands, Sur & Wadis)

Eastern Oman’s classic loop: wadi-hiking and swimming at Wadi Shab and Wadi Bani Khalid, the old port of Sur and turtles at Ras al Jinz, and stargazing from a Wahiba Sands desert camp.

This destination covers Oman’s South and North Sharqiya governorates: the Wahiba Sands (officially Sharqiya Sands) in the west, the old port of Sur and Ras al Jinz in the east, and the coastal canyons and mountains in between. It is the classic self-drive loop from Muscat. Head east along the coastal highway to Bimmah Sinkhole, then swim at Wadi Shab and Wadi Tiwi. Pass the UNESCO-listed ancient city of Qalhat on the way to Sur, where you can visit the dhow-building yard and the old fishing village, and at night go to Ras al Jinz to watch green turtles lay eggs. The next day head west via Wadi Bani Khalid, enter a Wahiba Sands desert camp in the afternoon for sunset and stars, and return via Ibra, the Sinaw souq and Al Mintarib Fort. Best season: October to March, with daytime temperatures of about 25–30°C and desert nights dropping to around 10°C. April to September is scorching and unsuitable for desert camping or hiking, though June to September is peak turtle-nesting season. Getting there: you will almost certainly need to self-drive or hire a car; desert camps require a 4WD or camp transfers. Muscat to Sur takes about 2.5 hours and to Bidiyah about 2.5–3 hours. Suggested duration: 3–4 days, with 1 night in Sur or Ras al Jinz and 1 night at a desert camp. Notes: dry wadis can flash-flood after rain; dress modestly, and women should swim in a T-shirt and long trousers; on Fridays most forts and shops close or shorten their hours.

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