Mount Pelion

The port city gateway to Pelion, the 'mountain of the Centaurs', where stone-roofed villages sit among chestnut woods and the mountains run straight down to the blue bays of the Aegean.

Volos is a port city in the Magnesia regional unit of Thessaly, Greece, located between Athens and Thessaloniki, with Mount Pelion at its back and the Pagasetic Gulf in front. In Greek mythology Pelion was the home of the Centaurs; the peninsula is dotted with more than twenty villages with slate roofs, set amid forests of chestnut, beech and plane trees. Its western slopes face the calm gulf while its eastern side plunges into the Aegean – mountain and sea in one.

It's a year-round destination: Jun–Sep for the beaches of the east coast; spring and autumn for hiking the old cobbled mule paths (kalderimi) and seeing the chestnut woods turn; and Dec–Mar for skiing at Agriolefkes. In Volos itself, enjoy the seafront promenade, tsipouro taverns and the Archaeological Museum; the western slope villages (Makrinitsa, Portaria) are closest to town; over the Hania Pass on the eastern slope lie Tsagarada and Zagora and famous beaches such as Papa Nero and Mylopotamos; in the south are Milies and the narrow-gauge railway.

Getting there: Volos is about 330 km from Athens, around 4 hours by bus, and in summer there are international flights to Nea Anchialos Airport. Mountain buses are infrequent, so renting a car is recommended – drive slowly on the winding mountain roads. Allow 3–5 days. Meteora is about 120 km away and is listed as a separate destination.

Top sights

• Makrinitsa – The 'Balcony of Pelion,' a stone-built hillside village at about 650 meters above sea level, whose square overlooks Volos and the bay.
• Mylopotamos Beach – Pelion's most photogenic beach, where a rock barrier and a natural arch split it in two, with brilliant blue water.
• Pelion Railway (Moutzouris) – A century-old narrow-gauge steam train running through olive groves and chestnut forests, passing the curved steel bridge designed by the f…
• Portaria – The liveliest mountain village on the western slope of Mount Pelion, with a plane-tree square, flagstone lanes and many traditional stone g…
• Hania & Pelion Ski Centre (Agriolefkes) – A ski resort and mountain-pass village on the Pelion ridge, where on clear days you can see both the Aegean and the Pagasitic Gulf.
• Zagora – The largest mountain village in northeastern Pelion, known for its apple orchards and an 18th-century Greek school, with a descent to Horef…
• Horefto Beach – A long, fine-sand beach in northeastern Pelion, with crystal-clear water and tavernas lining the shore of this small fishing village.
• Agios Ioannis Beach – The liveliest seaside resort on East Pelion, with a long beach, seafood restaurants and water sports.
• Papa Nero Beach – A long curved beach of white fine sand and blue-green water, often rated one of Pelion's most beautiful beaches.
• Damouchari – A tiny harbour cradled by olive groves, the filming location of 'Mamma Mia!', with stone houses and Venetian castle ruins.
• Fakistra Beach – A hidden cove beneath cliffs, with turquoise water and white pebbles, reachable only on foot.
• Tsagarada – A mountain village hidden among chestnut and plane trees, where the thousand-year-old plane tree on Agia Paraskevi Square is a landmark of…
• Milies – Historic village where the 1821 uprising of the Greek War of Independence began, with an 18th-century library and a church covered in fresc…
• Vyzitsa – One of the best-preserved traditional villages in Pelion, with stone-roofed mansions and a quiet, old-world plane-tree square.
• Pinakates – A peaceful mountain village hidden among chestnut forests, where cobbled lanes, a spring fountain and a plane-tree square preserve the auth…
• Kala Nera – A calm seaside town on the Pagasitic Gulf with shallow sandy beaches that suit families with children, and a lively atmosphere in summer.
• Afissos – A small fishing village on the bay with several clear little beaches nearby, and a laid-back atmosphere in its seaside tavernas.
• Volos Waterfront (Argonafton) – A long promenade along the Pagasitic Gulf lined with cafés and tsipouradiko bars, with Mount Pelion rising behind the city.
• Argo Replica – A replica of the Argo, built according to ancient Greek myth, commemorating Jason and the heroes who set sail from here in search of the Go…
• Athanasakeio Archaeological Museum of Volos – An archaeological museum displaying Neolithic artifacts from Thessaly and rare Hellenistic painted tombstones.
• Tsalapatas Brickworks Museum – A century-old brickworks converted into an industrial museum, with an impressive Hoffmann kiln and tall chimney.
• Sesklo Neolithic Settlement – One of Europe's oldest farming villages, inhabited since around 6800 BC, with visible citadel and hall remains.
• Dimini Neolithic Settlement – A Neolithic settlement from around 4800 BC, with concentric stone walls and Mycenaean-era beehive tombs.
• Theophilos Museum (Kontos House) – A historic house displaying a full wall of murals by the Greek self-taught painter Theophilos, located on the way to Makrinitsa.

Where to eat

• Kardamo Tavern – A mountain-village restaurant on the edge of Makrinitsa, overlooking Volos and the Pagasitic Gulf; stews and hand-rolle…
• Synantisi Taverna – A family taverna on the central square of Kissos village; chef Ria cooks refined mountain-village dishes with plenty of…
• Ortansies Taverna – A longtime family taverna in the shade of trees beside the Katichori stream, its courtyard full of hydrangeas; grilled…
• To Salkimi Taverna – A year-round taverna by the church in Milies, serving Asia Minor–style stews and Pelion handmade pies; popular with loc…
• Aggelika Fish Taverna – The only seafood taverna on Milopotamos Beach, family-run for over 40 years; you can go into the kitchen to choose the…