Vitoria-Gasteiz

The Basque capital and a European Green Capital, with an oval medieval old town, a cathedral you can climb, and the thousand-year-old Añana Salt Valley.

Vitoria-Gasteiz is the capital of Spain's Basque Country and of the province of Álava, set in an upland basin about 65 km south of Bilbao; in 2012 it was named European Green Capital. At its heart is an almond-shaped medieval old town on a hill, its streets named after the guilds that once worked there (blacksmiths, cutlers, shoemakers and so on), ringed in tiers around Santa María Cathedral at the top. Along the old town's southern edge lie Plaza de la Virgen Blanca, Plaza de España and the terraced arcades of Los Arquillos; further south is the 19th-century Ensanche, Parque de la Florida, and the palace museums lining Paseo de la Senda. Around the city runs the Green Ring (Anillo Verde), some 30 km of walking and cycling paths, and the Salburua wetlands are good for birdwatching; about 30 km southwest, the Añana Salt Valley has terraced saltworks more than a thousand years old, and Gorbeia Natural Park lies to the north. The Rioja Alavesa wine region to the south (Laguardia and others) is usually covered on a Logroño–La Rioja itinerary. Vitoria is also a stronghold of Basque pintxos culture, with pintxo-pote deals on Thursday evenings along Calle Cuchillería in the old town and Calle Dato in the new town. Getting there: about 1 hour by bus from Bilbao or San Sebastián, and 3.5–4 hours by train from Madrid. The climate is cool and rainy with cold winters; May–Sep is the best time to visit, with the international jazz festival in July and the Virgen Blanca festivities in early August. Plan on 1–2 days, and book cathedral tours in advance.

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