Viñales

A World Heritage karst valley of limestone mogotes, red-earth tobacco fields and cigar farms, where you can ride on horseback through Cuba's most beautiful countryside.

Viñales lies in Pinar del Río Province at the western end of Cuba, about 180 km from Havana. It is a karst valley ringed by rounded limestone hills known as "mogotes," and was inscribed as a World Heritage "Cultural Landscape" in 1999. The red-earth tobacco fields, thatched drying barns, royal palms and farmers on horseback make up Cuba's most pastoral scenery, and this area is also one of the world's top cigar-tobacco-growing regions. Climate: the dry season from November to April is best for horseback riding and hiking, and January–March is when you can see the tobacco harvest and drying; May–October is hot, humid and prone to afternoon thunderstorms, with a hurricane risk in September–October. What to do: use a guesthouse in town as your base. On Day 1, ride through the valley on horseback, visit a tobacco farm and, in the evening, go to the Los Jazmines viewpoint. On Day 2, take the loop tourist bus or cycle to Cueva del Indio, the Cimarrón (runaway slave) cave and the Mural de la Prehistoria, or explore the Santo Tomás cave system or hike at Cueva de la Vaca. On Day 3, head to the beaches of Cayo Jutías or Cayo Levisa, or go to Pinar del Río to visit a cigar factory and the Casa Garay guava liquor distillery. Getting there: from Havana, take a Viazul bus (about 3.5–4 hours) or a shared taxi or classic car (about 3 hours). We recommend 2–3 nights. Notes: Cuba has tight supplies and electricity, with frequent power cuts; cash (euros or US dollars) is more reliable than bank cards, and exchange rates and prices change often. On horseback tours, be sure to check the condition of the horses and ask for a helmet.

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