Villahermosa

Capital of Tabasco State. The La Venta Park-Museum displays Olmec colossal stone heads in a lakeside jungle, and nearby are Maya brick ruins and cacao haciendas.

Villahermosa is the capital of the Mexican state of Tabasco. It sits on lowlands along the Grijalva and Carrizal rivers, with a population of about 700,000. It is a centre of the Gulf of Mexico oil industry and the air gateway to the Maya ruins of Palenque in Chiapas, about 140 km away. This is the homeland of the Olmecs, often called the 'mother civilization' of Mesoamerica. The La Venta Park-Museum displays colossal stone heads in a lakeside jungle setting. Tabasco is also one of the places where cacao originated, and cacao haciendas in the countryside still make chocolate using traditional methods.

Areas to explore: The city centre revolves around the La Venta Park-Museum, Tomás Garrido Park and Laguna de las Ilusiones. The CICOM district by the river has the Carlos Pellicer Cámara Anthropology Museum, and the old Zona Luz pedestrian street preserves some colonial buildings. On the eastern outskirts is Yumká Ecological Park. About 55 km northwest is Comalcalco, with unusual brick-built Maya ruins and cacao haciendas. About 70 km northeast are the Centla Wetlands. In the southern hills, you can visit the magical town of Tapijulapa and the Cocona caves.

Season: November to April is relatively dry and the best time to visit. May is the hottest month. June to October is the humid rainy season, and heavy downpours can cause flooding.

Getting there: Villahermosa International Airport has flights to Mexico City, Cancún and other destinations. ADO long-distance buses run to Palenque (about 2.5 hours), Campeche and Chiapas. Within the city, use taxis or ride-hailing apps. For outlying sites, drive or hire a car. A stay of 2 days is recommended, often combined with Palenque. Use sunscreen and insect repellent, and stay indoors during the midday heat where possible.

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