Vestmannaeyjar (Westman Islands)

A volcanic archipelago off Iceland's south coast whose main island, Heimaey, was half buried by the 1973 eruption of Eldfell and is now home to one of the world's largest puffin colonies.

Vestmannaeyjar (the Westman Islands) lie in the North Atlantic about 10 km off Iceland's south coast, comprising 15 islands and dozens of skerries. The only inhabited one is the main island, Heimaey (about 13 km², population 4,500). The entire archipelago is volcanic in origin: a submarine eruption in 1963 created the new island of Surtsey (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), and in 1973 Eldfell on Heimaey erupted without warning, its lava engulfing about 400 houses and forcing the entire population to evacuate overnight; today half the town is built on the new lava. The islands are also home to one of the world's largest Atlantic puffin colonies, with millions of puffins breeding on the sea cliffs from late April to mid-August each year. Main areas to explore: the town (harbor, the Eldheimar volcano museum, the Beluga Whale Sanctuary and the Skansinn fort), all within walking distance; Eldfell and Helgafell to the east; the Herjólfsdalur valley and seabird cliffs to the west; Stórhöfði at the southern tip for puffin watching; and boat trips around the island to see sea caves and a lonely house on an outlying islet. Getting there: drive about 2 hours from Reykjavík to Landeyjahöfn on the mainland, then take the Herjólfur ferry for about 35–40 minutes (cars allowed; book ahead in summer). In winter, Landeyjahöfn is often closed due to silt and rough seas, and the ferry departs from Þorlákshöfn instead, a crossing of about 2.5–3 hours; small planes also fly from Reykjavík. The best season is Jun–Aug, when puffins, boat tours and ferry departures are most plentiful; tickets for Þjóðhátíð, the national festival on the first weekend of August, are hard to come by. In winter, rough seas often cancel ferries, so build some slack into your plans. Plan to stay 1–2 days; you can get around the island on foot or by rented bike, though you'll need to drive or cycle to Stórhöfði.

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