Varaždin

A Baroque old town in northern Croatia, with a moated castle and palace complex that is remarkably well preserved. Day trips to castles such as Veliki Tabor in the Zagorje hills are possible.

Varaždin lies in northern Croatia on the south bank of the Drava River, about 80 km from Zagreb and close to the Slovenian and Hungarian borders. From 1767 to 1776 it served as the capital of Croatia, and nobles built a large number of Baroque palaces and churches here. After a great fire in 1776, the capital moved to Zagreb, and the old town's appearance was preserved as it was. It is still called the Baroque capital of Croatia.

Sights: The historic core can be covered on foot. Its landmark is the white old castle surrounded by earthen ramparts and a moat, which houses the City Museum. South of it lie King Tomislav Square, the town hall from 1523, the Drašković and Sermage palaces, the cathedral, the Franciscan church, and the Museum of the Insect World. About 1 km west of the center, the cemetery is known for its geometric hedges. Nearby, you can visit the spa town of Varaždinske Toplice, 15 km southeast, to soak in Roman-era thermal waters, or the Čakovec castle to the northeast, or the Veliki Tabor castle in the Zagorje hills to the southwest. Trakošćan Castle is covered in the Zagreb itinerary, and if you are driving, you can stop there on the way.

Seasons: May to September is best for strolling the old town. Late August brings the Špancirfest street arts festival, and September's Baroque Evenings classical music festival is lively. On Saturday mornings, the city guard changes in front of the town hall. Winters are cold, but the Christmas market is cozy.

Getting there: Trains or buses from Zagreb take about 1–1.5 hours; driving via the A4 motorway takes about 1 hour. The old town is pedestrian-only. Plan 1–2 days. It works as a day trip from Zagreb, or as a stop on the way to Ptuj and Maribor in Slovenia.

Top sights

• Varaždin Old Town (Stari grad) – A white Renaissance fortress surrounded by earthen ramparts and a moat, the symbol of Varaždin and home to the City Museum.
• King Tomislav Square & Baroque Old Town – The central square, ringed by the 1523 town hall and Baroque palaces such as Drašković and Patačić, is the heart of any walking tour of the…
• Varaždin Cemetery – Tall arborvitae hedges clipped into geometric shapes divide the cemetery into corridors, and it is hailed as one of Europe's most beautiful…
• Cathedral of the Assumption, Varaždin – A 17th-century Baroque church built by the Jesuits, with a magnificent golden high altar, and the main venue of the Varaždin Baroque Evenin…
• Franciscan Church of St John the Baptist – The tallest Baroque bell tower in the old town, with a replica of Bishop Ninski's statue by Meštrović standing in front of the church.
• Sermage Palace – Gallery of Old and Modern Masters – A rococo palace with a red façade decorated with round reliefs, where the Fine Arts department of the City Museum shows European and Croati…
• World of Insects (Herzer Palace) – An entomology collection in an 18th-century palace, with some 4,500 specimens and ecological displays, well loved by families with children.
• Varaždinske Toplice & Aquae Iasae – A hot-spring town about 15 km away, where 58°C sulphur water has been used since Roman times, and whose centre preserves Roman bath ruins.
• Zrinski Castle, Čakovec – The castle of the Zrinski family in the Međimurje region, surrounded by a moat and a city park, housing the Međimurje Museum.
• Veliki Tabor Castle – A five-sided medieval castle on a hill near Zagorje, with intact semicircular towers and a timber-galleried courtyard, linked to the tragic…
• Ludbreg – A small town that calls itself the 'Center of the World', with a Center of the World marker set into its main square and a site of Croatian…

Where to eat

• Bedem – A Michelin Guide restaurant beside the Varaždin castle walls, where two national champion chefs reinterpret traditional…
• Verglec – A traditional restaurant in the old town center and the first in Croatia certified for local cuisine. Its signature dis…
• Zlatne Gorice Winery Restaurant – A winery restaurant on the vineyard hills south of Varaždin, listed in the Michelin Guide, known for its turkey with ml…