Varanasi

Hinduism's holiest city on the Ganges, where dawn bathing on the ghats, the cremation grounds and the evening aarti are deeply moving; just outside town, Sarnath is where the Buddha gave his first sermon.

Varanasi (historically known as Banaras and Kashi) lies in southeastern Uttar Pradesh, India, on the west bank of the middle Ganges. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and the holiest of Hinduism's seven sacred cities: devotees believe that bathing here washes away sins, and that dying and being cremated here brings release from the cycle of rebirth. The city curves along the Ganges in a crescent, with more than 80 ghats lining about 6–7 km of riverbank, from Assi Ghat in the south to Panchganga Ghat in the north, all connected by a riverside walk. Behind the ghats lies a maze of old-town lanes (galis). About 10 km north of the city is Sarnath, where the Buddha gave his first sermon after attaining enlightenment, one of the four great Buddhist pilgrimage sites. The best season is October to March, with daytime temperatures of 20–28°C; in December–January, mornings are often thick with fog and temperatures can drop to 5–8°C. April–June is scorching, above 40°C, and during the July–September monsoon the swollen Ganges floods some ghats and boat trips may be suspended. Dev Deepawali, held 15 days after Diwali (usually in November), sees the city's ghats lit with over a million oil lamps, the most spectacular and most crowded time of the year. Getting there: Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport has domestic flights from Delhi, Mumbai and other cities; the Vande Bharat Express from Delhi takes about 8 hours. Plan to stay 2–3 days: one morning for a sunrise boat ride, one evening for the aarti and half a day for Sarnath. Tips: Chinese citizens must obtain an Indian visa in advance (e-visa rules change from time to time; check official Indian sources); photographing cremations at the burning ghats is prohibited, and beware of self-styled "guides" who take you to see cremations and then demand money for firewood; drink only bottled water, and choose busy stalls for street lassi and fried snacks; women are advised to wear long sleeves and long trousers.

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