Utrecht

A historic city in the central Netherlands where wharf cellars along two-level canals have become terrace restaurants; climb the Dom Tower for city views, with Castle De Haar and the Rietveld Schröder House nearby.

Utrecht sits at the very centre of the Netherlands. The country's fourth-largest city and its national rail hub, it is only about 25 minutes by train from Amsterdam yet has a completely different feel: the old town centres on the Dom Tower, where medieval canals and churches mingle with student life, making it one of the liveliest university cities in the Netherlands. April–September is best for dining on canalside wharf terraces, boat trips and cycling into the countryside; winters are grey and chilly, but there are plenty of museums, and December brings Christmas events. The main sights are concentrated in the walkable old town: climb the Dom Tower, explore the two-level wharves of the Oudegracht and the Nieuwegracht, and visit the Centraal Museum, the Miffy Museum, Museum Speelklok (mechanical music) and Museum Catharijneconvent. East of the centre are the De Stijl landmark Rietveld Schröder House and the Railway Museum. Out of town you can visit Castle De Haar, the largest castle in the Netherlands, Slot Zuylen on the Vecht, and Fort Vechten on the World Heritage-listed Dutch Water Defence Lines; a 15-minute train ride takes you to the medieval town of Amersfoort. Getting there: direct trains from Schiphol Airport take about 30 minutes. The city has excellent cycling infrastructure, and renting a bike is the easiest way to get around. Allow 1–2 days. Note: most museums close on Mondays, and the Dom Tower and Schröder House must be booked in advance.

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