Upper Suriname River

The heart of Suriname's interior rainforest tourism. Dugout trips upriver from the Atjoni landing lead to lodges in Saramaccan Maroon villages, with rapids, rainforest, and traditional culture along the way.

The Upper Suriname River refers to the upper reaches of the Suriname River in central Suriname, south of Brokopondo Reservoir, within Sipaliwini District. From the Atjoni landing at the end of the road, it runs about 100 km south to the source streams of the Gran Rio and Pikin Rio. This is the homeland of the Saramaccan Maroons, descendants of enslaved Africans who escaped coastal plantations in the 17th and 18th centuries. In the rainforest they preserved many West African traditions, and dozens of stilt-house villages line the river.

A typical trip begins at Atjoni, where you transfer to a motorized dugout canoe and travel upstream for 2–5 hours to eco-lodges on the riverbank or on islands. Along the middle reaches are Dampati Island and Botopasi, and nearby at Pikin Slee is the Saramaka Museum. Upstream, Djumu is the transport hub. Further south on the Gran Rio are Kayana village and the Awarradam Jungle Lodge, known for its rapids. Each lodge typically offers rainforest walks, swimming in the rapids (sula), caiman spotting at night, birdwatching, and village visits with traditional dance. Brownsberg Nature Park and Brokopondo Reservoir lie 70–80 km to the north and are often visited on the way back (covered in the Paramaribo entry).

The best season is the long dry season from August to November, and the short dry season from February to April also works. May–July is the rainy season, when river levels rise sharply.

Getting there: From Paramaribo it takes about 4–5 hours by bus to Atjoni (morning minibuses run daily except Sunday), or you can take a small plane to the airstrips at Botopasi, Djumu, Kayana, and other villages. Most visitors book 2–5 day lodge packages that include transport, meals, and guiding.

Notes: Malaria and dengue are present, so take mosquito precautions. Wear a life jacket for the entire boat trip. In villages, ask permission before photographing people, and respect village rules and sacred taboos. Facilities are basic, so bring plenty of cash and essential medicine.

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