Upper Mustang

The ancient Kingdom of Lo in the Himalayan rain shadow: the ochre-walled city of Lo Manthang, millennia-old caves and red cliffs — a remarkably well-preserved Tibetan cultural enclave.

Upper Mustang is a high rain-shadow plateau in northwestern Nepal, north of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, at 3,000–4,000 m. Its landscape of reddish-brown, wind-eroded canyons and desert was once the independent Kingdom of Lo; it opened to foreigners only in 1992 and is often called "the last forbidden kingdom" of Tibetan culture. The heart of the region is the walled city of Lo Manthang, where the royal palace and Jampa, Thubchen and Chode monasteries preserve precious 15th-century murals. Using Lo Manthang as a base, a day trip north takes in the Chhoser cave complex (Jhong Cave), Garphu and Nyphu monasteries, while to the northwest is a horseback loop to Namgyal Gompa. On the way back south you can pass Ghar Gompa, the red cliffs of Dhakmar, Tsarang and the Ghemi mani wall, and around Chele and Chhusang near the valley entrance there are many sky caves. Entry requires an Upper Mustang special permit (US$500 for 10 days, US$50 per extra day), a minimum of two people and a licensed guide, plus an Annapurna Conservation Area permit. Most travelers fly from Pokhara to Jomsom, then continue via Kagbeni to Lo Manthang by jeep (about 1 day) or on foot (about 4 days); allow 7–12 days in total. April–October is the best time — being in the rain shadow, it gets little rain even during the monsoon; the Tiji Festival takes place in May. Be prepared for altitude sickness, strong winds and intense sun; lodges are basic.

Top sights

Where to eat

Itineraries