Upolu & Apia

Samoa's main island, home to the natural swimming hole of To Sua Ocean Trench and beach fale at Lalomanu, in an off-the-beaten-path nation that keeps the Polynesian "Samoan way" very much alive.

Upolu is Samoa's main island, stretching about 75 km from east to west. The capital, Apia, sits midway along the north coast, while Faleolo International Airport lies at the island's northwestern tip, about 40 minutes' drive from town. The island holds firmly to Fa'a Samoa, the "Samoan way": extended families and the matai (chief) system, open-sided round fale, and whole villages heading to church on Sunday. The climate is tropical rainforest, around 26–30°C year-round; the May–Oct dry season is the best time to visit, while the Nov–Apr wet season brings frequent showers and the occasional cyclone. Sightseeing falls into four areas: ① Apia – the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum and Mount Vaea, the markets, the cathedral, the museum and snorkeling at Palolo Deep; ② the Cross Island Road – the Bahá'í House of Worship, Papapapai-tai Falls and Lake Lanoto'o; ③ the southeast coast – To Sua Ocean Trench, Lalomanu Beach, a string of waterfalls and Namua Island; ④ the southwest coast – Return to Paradise Beach, the giant clam sanctuary, the Sa'anapu mangroves and Manono Island off the western tip. Self-driving is the most convenient way to get around (driving is on the left and you need a temporary licence); you can also hire a car with driver or ride the colourful wooden buses. Allow 4–6 days and spend at least one night in a beach fale. Note: many beaches and sights are village-owned and charge a small entry fee; on Sundays most shops close and swimming or making noise in villages is not allowed; dress modestly when entering villages and keep quiet during evening prayer time. The currency is the tala, and cash is the norm in remote areas.

Top sights

• To Sua Ocean Trench – A 30-meter-deep sinkhole pool surrounded by tropical gardens. Visitors climb down a long wooden ladder into emerald seawater to swim. It is…
• Lalomanu Beach – A white-sand beach at the southeastern tip of Upolu, with traditional fale beach huts in a row facing Nu'utele and the blue-green lagoon. I…
• Robert Louis Stevenson Museum (Villa Vailima) – The late home of Robert Louis Stevenson, author of Treasure Island. The colonial-style wooden house and tropical garden at Vailima are well…
• Mount Vaea & Stevenson's Tomb – A trail behind Vailima ends at Stevenson's tomb, with views over Apia Harbor and the coastline. The gravestone is inscribed with his famous…
• Papase'ea Sliding Rocks – Natural water slides near Apia, where a stream has worn smooth basalt. You can slide down from rock faces several meters high into a pool b…
• Piula Cave Pool – Clear freshwater pools fed by a spring beneath the Piula Theological College. You can swim into a rock cave, separated from the sea by only…
• Apia Market (Maketi Fou / Fugalei) – The liveliest all-round market in Apia, selling vegetables, coconuts, cooked food and handicrafts. It is a great place to experience everyd…
• Savalalo Flea Market – A handicraft and souvenir market on the Apia waterfront, next to the fish market and a food court. It is good for buying lavalavas and souv…
• Palolo Deep Marine Reserve – A coral reef reserve right at the edge of Apia, where you can swim across shallow reef to a deep blue reef cave rich with tropical fish and…
• Immaculate Conception Cathedral, Apia – A white twin-towered Catholic cathedral standing on the Apia waterfront. It is a city landmark, and its rebuilt interior features beautiful…
• Museum of Samoa (Falemata'aga) – A national museum showing Samoan traditional culture, seafaring and colonial history. It is small, but a quick way to learn about Samoa.
• Samoa Cultural Village – A cultural village behind the Tourism Authority visitor center, where umu cooking, tapa making, wood carving and traditional tattooing are…
• Bahá'í House of Worship, Tiapapata – A white nine-sided domed building in the hills south of Apia, the only Bahá'í House of Worship in the Pacific. It is quiet and set in beaut…
• Lake Lanoto'o – A volcanic crater lake in the central highlands of Upolu, with dark green water and a legend of golden fish. It is reached by a hike throug…
• Papapapaitai Falls – A roughly 100-meter waterfall visible from a lookout beside the Cross Island Road, plunging from a canyon cliff into a deep valley. It is o…
• O Le Pupu-Pu'e National Park – Samoa's first national park, stretching from the central ridge to the lava coast of the south, with rainforest trails and spectacular sea c…
• Togitogiga Waterfall – A series of small waterfalls and clear pools inside the national park, where you can swim and dive. It is a popular spot for local families…
• Sopoaga Falls – A waterfall of over 50 meters near Lotofaga in the southeast, with a viewing area that includes a display garden of traditional tools and a…
• Fuipisia Falls – A waterfall about 55 meters high, reached by a short walk through a small patch of rainforest from the Le Mafa Pass road. From the cliff to…
• Namu'a Island – A small island off Lalomanu with just one family-run beach fale, and a hilltop lookout with panoramic views of the Aleipata Islands.
• Manono Island – A car-free island between Upolu and Savai'i with a coastal loop trail of about 1.5 hours, traditional villages, and a peaceful Samoan way o…
• Return to Paradise Beach – A white-sand bay of lava-rock reefs in Lefaga on the south coast, where the 1951 film Return to Paradise was shot, with unspoiled scenery.
• Savaia Giant Clam Sanctuary – A shallow-water giant clam conservation area managed by the villagers of Lefaga, where snorkelers can see huge, brightly colored clams and…
• Sa'anapu Mangroves & Beach – A mangrove conservation area in Safata Bay on the south coast, where you can paddle a canoe through the waterways. Nearby Sa'anapu Beach ha…
• Matareva Beach – A hidden little bay near Salamumu, where a clear lagoon ringed by rocky headlands is ideal for snorkeling, and it is often called one of Up…
• Uafato & Fagaloa Bay – A fjord-like bay cutting deep into the mountains on Upolu's north coast, with a primeval rainforest reserve. Uafato village is known for it…
• Mulinu'u Peninsula – A long, narrow peninsula west of Apia with the Parliament building, the Independence Monument, and the tombs of past paramount chiefs. It i…

Where to eat

• Paddles Restaurant – Apia's top-rated family restaurant, where a Samoan mother cooks local dishes and an Italian father prepares Italian coo…
• Fugalei Market (New Market) – Apia's main market, where food stalls sell taro, palusami and Samoan cocoa; cheap and authentic.
• Bistro Tatau – A long-established refined restaurant in Apia that blends Asian flavors with Pacific ingredients, ideal for a special d…
• Nourish Café – Apia's most popular café, serving healthy brunch dishes made with local ingredients and Samoan flavors.
• Giordano's Pizzeria – A wood-fired pizza institution since 1990, with garden seating, often called Samoa's oldest pizzeria.
• Ava i Toga Overwater Restaurant – An overwater restaurant at the Sinalei resort on the south coast, built over a freshwater spring in the lagoon, ideal f…

Itineraries

• The Two Samoas Three-Island – Loop around Upolu and Savai'i, then fly to Tutuila to explore ocean trenches, lava fields, and national parks.