Ulanqab

The grassland summer-retreat capital, with the alpine meadows of Huanghuagou on Huitengxile, the Ulanhad volcano cluster and Daihai Lake, just 2 hours from Beijing by high-speed train.

Ulanqab lies in central Inner Mongolia at the eastern end of the Yin Mountains, with the city government seated in Jining District. At 1,000–2,000 m above sea level, it averages about 19°C in summer and is known as the grassland summer-retreat capital. Since the opening of the Beijing–Baotou and Zhangjiakou–Hohhot high-speed railways, Beijing is as little as about 2 hours away and Hohhot about 1 hour, making it a good weekend escape from the heat. The usual approach is to base yourself in Jining and take driving trips out in every direction: to the north, the Ulanhad Volcano Geopark in Chahar Right Rear Banner, where dozens of extinct volcanic cones dot the grassland and you can climb up to the craters; to the northwest, the Huitengxile grassland in Chahar Right Middle Banner, at about 2,000 m, where Huanghuagou becomes a sea of wildflowers in Jul–Aug amid rows of wind turbines; to the southwest, Daihai Lake in Liangcheng County, with lakeside hot-spring resorts; to the southeast, the forests of Sumu Mountain in Xinghe County and the old town of Longshengzhuang in Fengzhen; and in the city, Laohu Mountain, the Jining Campaign Memorial and the Ulanqab Museum, with Huangqi Lake and the ruins of the Yuan-dynasty city of Jininglu nearby. The best season is Jun–Sep; winters are bitterly cold, with lows down to -30°C. Sights are scattered and public transport is poor, so rent a car or hire one with a driver, and allow 2–3 days. Signature foods include oat noodles (youmian wowo rolls and yuyu strands), Zhuozishan smoked chicken, stewed sauerkraut and hand-held mutton. Note: temperatures swing widely between day and night on the grasslands and UV is strong, so bring a jacket and sun protection; if horse riding, choose a licensed stable and wear a helmet.

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