Ulan-Ude
The capital of Buryatia, with the world's largest Lenin head, Ivolginsky Datsan and Old Believer villages; the gateway to the eastern shore of Lake Baikal.
Ulan-Ude is the capital of Russia's Republic of Buryatia, located where the Selenga and Uda rivers meet. Here the Trans-Siberian Railway and the line to Mongolia and China part ways, and the eastern shore of Lake Baikal is about 100 km away. The city is the centre of Tibetan Buddhism in Russia, where Buryat Mongol culture, Russian Orthodoxy and Old Believer traditions blend together. The city centre revolves around the giant Lenin head on Soviet Square, and you can walk to the Opera and Ballet Theatre, the National Museum, the pedestrianised Lenin Street, the Triumphal Arch and Odigitrievsky Cathedral; the Rinpoche Bagsha Datsan on Bald Mountain in the north of the city overlooks the whole city, and the open-air Ethnographic Museum of the Peoples of Transbaikalia sits in the pine forest at Verkhnyaya Berezovka. Top day trips include Ivolginsky Datsan, about 35 km southwest, and the Old Believer villages of Tarbagatay and Desyatnikovo to the south; about 130 km west by road is Posolsk Monastery on the shore of Lake Baikal. Barguzin Bay and the Holy Nose Peninsula on the eastern shore deserve a separate trip. Jun–Aug has the best weather; winters often reach -30°C but are sunny, and Sagaalgan (the Lunar New Year) falls in February. The city can be reached by train or plane from Beijing and Irkutsk; the train from Irkutsk takes about 7–8 hours. Get around town by minibus and taxi. Allow 2–3 days, and be sure to try Buryat dumplings (buuzy).
Top sights
- Lenin Head Monument (Soviets Square) – The world's largest bronze head of Lenin, about 7.7 meters tall, standing in front of the government building on Soviet Square. It is a sym…
- Ivolginsky Datsan – Russia's Buddhist center, with Tibetan-style golden-roofed temples and a circumambulation path. It enshrines the Ivolginsky Khambo Lama Dam…
- Ethnographic Museum of Transbaikal Peoples – A sprawling open-air folk museum that re-creates traditional dwellings such as Buryat yurts, wooden houses of the Old Believers, and Evenki…
- Rinpoche Bagsha Datsan – A newly built Buddhist temple on the summit of Bald Mountain, housing one of Russia's largest gilded Buddha statues. The viewing platform o…
- Odigitrievsky Cathedral – The oldest stone building in Ulan-Ude, a late-18th-century Baroque Orthodox episcopal cathedral with white walls and a green roof, standing…
- Buryat Opera and Ballet Theatre – A Stalinist-style theater completed in 1952, whose facade and interior hall blend Buryat decorative motifs. It hosts ballet, opera, and nat…
- Lenin Street Pedestrian Zone & Triumphal Arch – The old main street of Ulan-Ude, nicknamed the “Arbat.” Merchant mansions, a fountain, and a tsarist triumphal arch line a pleasant pedestr…
- National Museum of the Republic of Buryatia – A museum of Buryat Buddhist art, with a famous 19th-century Tibetan medical atlas and fine thangkas and Buddha statues. Its collection incl…
- Museum of Nature of Buryatia – A small museum focused on the ecology of Lake Baikal, with a giant three-dimensional model of the lake, seal and fish specimens, and a fami…
- Tarbagatay Old Believers Villages (Desyatnikovo) – A village of Russian Old Believers known as “Semeisky,” with painted wooden houses, a folk museum, and a communal feast with choral singing…
- Posolsky Monastery (Lake Baikal) – One of the closest Lake Baikal sights to Ulan-Ude, with a white monastery standing on the shore. It is a classic destination for a day trip…
Where to eat
- Tengis – A modern nomadic-style restaurant inside the Baikal Plaza Hotel, offering a wide variety of buuzy and located right nex…
- Orda – A Buryat ethnic-style restaurant on Pushkin Street featuring live music and a menu that balances local dishes with Euro…
- Shenekhenskie Buuzy – An affordable buuzy joint on Sverdlov Street, praised by diners for its thin wrappers and fragrant fillings, making it…
Itineraries
- Lake Baikal Eastern Shore & Barguzin – Enter and exit via Ulan-Ude, travel through the Barguzin Valley and Svyatoy Nos Peninsula, and explore Chivyrkuisky Bay.
- Trans-Siberian Railway Eastern Section: Vladivostok to Lake Baikal – Travel west along the railway via Khabarovsk and Ulan-Ude to Irkutsk and Olkhon Island.
- Trans-Siberian Railway: Moscow to Beijing – Cross Russia by train in stages, traveling through Lake Baikal and the Mongolian steppes to Beijing.