Ulagai & Ujimqin Grasslands

One of China's best-preserved native grasslands, with the Nine Bends of the Ulagai River, the filming location of Wolf Totem, Khan Mountain and the herding lands of East Ujimqin – the ultimate grassland road trip.

Ulagai lies in the northeast of Xilingol League, Inner Mongolia. It is the Ulagai Management Area, administered directly by the league, and is surrounded by East Ujimqin Banner, bordering Mongolia to the north and the western foothills of the Greater Khingan Range to the east. It has one of the best-preserved native meadow steppes in China. The Ulagai River, Inner Mongolia's largest inland river, winds here to form the Nine Bends before flowing into the wetlands of Ulagai Lake (a reservoir); the film Wolf Totem was shot here. Visitors base themselves in Bayan Hushuo, the seat of the management area, and there are three classic driving routes. The eastern route runs via Bulin Spring, the Halagaitu Production Corps town and Ulagai Lake to the Nine Bends for sunset over the river meanders, a loop of about 150 km. The southeastern route goes to Khan Mountain and its sculptures of Mongol emperors. The northern route leads to Wolf Valley on the Hesigewula ranch. About 150 km to the west, Uliastai, the seat of East Ujimqin Banner, has the Lama Kuren Temple and is often combined with the Xilinhot–Ulagai grassland driving route. The best time to visit is Jul–Aug, when the pastures are greenest and wildflowers are in bloom; the grass turns yellow in early September, winter sets in quickly from late September, and winter lows can reach -35°C. The nearest airports are Xilinhot (about 300 km away) and Huolinguole (about 150 km). Roads between sights are mostly grassland roads and gravel tracks, so self-driving or hiring a car with driver is essentially the only option. Allow 2–3 days. Phone signal and petrol stations are scarce on the grassland, so fill up and carry water before setting off. Do not drive off-road onto the pastures, and watch out for cattle and sheep crossing the road at night.

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