Ubon Ratchathani

An old city on Isan's eastern edge, famous across Thailand for its July Candle Festival; head east to the Mekong for the Pha Taem cliff paintings, Sam Phan Bok and the glowing Wat Sirindhorn.

Ubon (Ubon Ratchathani) sits at the far eastern end of Thailand's northeastern Isan region, with the Mun River running through town, Laos to the east and Cambodia to the south. It is the transport and cultural hub of eastern Isan. The city is best known for its temples: Wat Thung Si Mueang with its scripture library on stilts over a pond, Wat Phra That Nong Bua modelled on Bodh Gaya, the Ubon Ratchathani National Museum and Thung Si Mueang Park, the main venue of the Candle Festival, are all within walking distance or a short ride. Southwest of town are Wat Nong Pah Pong, founded by Ajahn Chah, and Wat Pah Nanachat, which welcomes foreign monks. The Candle Festival, held each July around the start of Buddhist Lent, is one of Thailand's best-known festivals, with giant carved-wax floats parading through the city. The real highlights, though, lie 80–110 km east along the Mekong: the two-coloured river confluence at Khong Chiam, the prehistoric cliff paintings and mushroom rocks of Pha Taem National Park, the rock pools of Sam Phan Bok overlooking the Mekong, Pha Chana Dai cliff for sunrise at Thailand's easternmost point, and Wat Sirindhorn Wararam, which glows after dusk. These are usually linked up over one or two days by hired car or self-drive. The cool season (Nov–Feb) has the most pleasant weather and is best for clifftop sunrises and Sam Phan Bok (the rocks only emerge when the river is low in the dry season, roughly Dec–May); in the rainy season (Jul–Oct) waterfalls are full but Sam Phan Bok is underwater. Several daily flights connect Bangkok and Ubon in about 1 hour, or take the overnight train (about 10 hours). In town, use Grab or songthaews; for the Mekong route, hire a car with driver or rent one. Allow 3–4 days.

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