Tusheti (Omalo)

A highland pastoral region deep in the Greater Caucasus, reached via the Abano Pass on one of the 'world's most dangerous roads'; stone-tower villages, meadows and multi-day trekking routes.

Tusheti lies in the far northeast of Georgia, on the northern slopes of the Greater Caucasus, bordering Russia's Chechnya and Dagestan to the north; administratively it belongs to Akhmeta Municipality in the Kakheti region. It is the traditional highland grazing land of the Tush people. At elevations mostly between 1,800 and 2,500 m, dozens of villages guarded by slate towers are scattered across the region. Most villagers move down to Alvani in winter and return only in summer to graze their flocks, which has helped preserve its strongly unspoiled character. Omalo is Tusheti's main village and the main base for visitors.

The only road into Tusheti crosses the Abano Pass at around 2,850 m. From Pshaveli to Omalo it's about 70 km of gravel road, 3–4 hours one way by 4x4, and it's usually open only from mid-June to early October; the rest of the year it's blocked by heavy snow. It's strongly recommended to hire a local driver in Telavi or Akhmeta rather than driving up in a rental car. In good weather small planes also fly from Telavi, but flights are few and irregular.

There are three main areas to explore: around Omalo (Keselo Fortress, Shenako, the Diklo loop and the hike to Oreti Lake); the Pirikiti Valley (Dartlo, Kvavlo, Parsma and Girevi, a classic 2–3 day village trek); and horseback riding and alpine meadow crossings within the national park. Stay at least 3 nights and leave a buffer in case rain closes the road and you get stuck. There are no ATMs in the villages, so bring cash; mobile signal is patchy. Guesthouses are mostly family-run and include breakfast and dinner, a chance to try Tushetian sheep's cheese and kotori (meat pies). The Tushetoba festival in early August features horse races and folk events.

Top sights

Where to eat

Itineraries