Trabzon & Uzungöl

Turkey's gateway to the Black Sea, with the cliffside Sumela Monastery, Lake Uzungöl and misty highland villages, plus tea gardens and seafood.

Trabzon is a historic city on the Black Sea coast of northeastern Turkey. Known in antiquity as Trebizond, it was a port on the northern Silk Road and the capital of the Byzantine Empire of Trebizond. Backed by the Pontic Mountains, the area between the mountains and the sea is rainy and humid, and its meadows, rainforests, tea gardens and highland villages create scenery quite unlike the rest of Turkey. In the city you can see Hagia Sophia Mosque, the old city walls and the Atatürk Pavilion, and sip tea while looking out over the sea at Boztepe. About 45 km south is Sumela Monastery, built into a cliff face, often combined with Karaca Cave and the village of Hamsiköy on a day trip; Lake Uzungöl, about 95 km southeast, can be visited as a day trip or with an overnight stay. Further east, the tea gardens of Rize, the Fırtına Valley, Zil Castle and Ayder Plateau make up the classic Black Sea highlands route, and a night in Ayder is recommended. The best time is May–Sep, when the highland meadows are lush green, with highland festivals in Jul–Aug; winters bring plenty of rain and snow, and highland roads may close. Trabzon Airport has flights from Istanbul and Ankara; getting around the city is mainly by dolmuş minibus, and for the highland route, self-driving or joining a tour is recommended. Plan to stay 3–5 days. Must-tries include Black Sea anchovies (hamsi), Akçaabat meatballs, kuymak (a cornmeal and cheese fondue) and Rize black tea.

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