Tongatapu (Nuku'alofa)

The capital island of the South Pacific's only kingdom – swim with humpback whales from July to October, see the trilithon, blowholes and Royal Palace, and hop across to 'Eua.

Tongatapu is the main island of the Kingdom of Tonga, covering about 260 km². The capital, Nuku'alofa, lies on the north coast, and around 70% of the country's population lives on this flat coral-limestone island. The island preserves many remains of ancient Polynesian royal power: in the east are the Ha'amonga 'a Maui Trilithon, dubbed the 'Stonehenge of the Pacific', and the ancient royal tombs (langi) of Mu'a/Lapaha; the capital has the Victorian-style wooden Royal Palace and the Royal Tombs; the south coast has blowholes and sea arches, and the western end has a flying fox village and coral-reef beaches. The climate is tropical maritime, dry and cool from May–Oct; from Jul–Oct humpback whales come here to breed, and you can join licensed operators to swim with them. Nov–Apr is the wet and cyclone season. Getting there: fly from Auckland, Nadi (Fiji) or Sydney to Fua'amotu International Airport, about 20 km south of the capital. There is virtually no public transport system, so hire a car (a temporary local licence is required; drive on the left) or charter a taxi to tour the island – the eastern and western loops can both be done in a day. For offshore islands, take a boat to Pangaimotu or Fafa Island, or a ferry or small plane to 'Eua. Allow 3–5 days. Sunday is the Sabbath, when almost all shops, sights and flights stop; go to church to hear Tongan multi-part choral singing. Wear clothing that covers your shoulders and knees when entering villages and churches. Since the 2022 Hunga Tonga–Hunga Ha'apai eruption and tsunami, some resorts in the west are still being rebuilt, so confirm they're open before booking.

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