Jizhou: Mount Panshan & Huangyaguan

A weekend mountain escape from Beijing and Tianjin: Mount Panshan, the "No. 1 Mountain East of Beijing," the Huangyaguan Great Wall and the Liao-dynasty Dule Temple. Stay in a Guojiagou farmstay, with the Eastern Qing Tombs next door.

Jizhou District (formerly Ji County) lies at the northernmost tip of Tianjin, at the southern foot of the Yan Mountains. It borders Xinglong in Hebei to the north, Zunhua to the east and Beijing's Pinggu to the west, about 110 km from downtown Tianjin and about 90 km from Beijing, making it the closest mountain "back garden" for both cities. Jizhou was anciently called Yuyang and was an important northern town in the Liao dynasty; its old city preserves the original Liao-era Dule Temple and a white pagoda.

The area divides into three parts: (1) Jizhou's urban area: Dule Temple, the White Pagoda of Guanyin Temple, the Drum Tower and Yuyang Ancient Street, plus the stone village of Xijingyu north of town; (2) Mount Panshan to the northwest, a 5A-rated scenic area that the Qianlong Emperor climbed 32 times, best for autumn foliage; (3) the mountains of Xiaying Town in the north: Huangyaguan, Tianjin's only section of the Great Wall, Jiushanding, Tianjin's highest peak, Limutai Gorge and the Baxianshan Reserve. Farmstays in places like Guojiagou are the most convenient base. About 30 km to the east is the Eastern Qing Tombs in Zunhua, Hebei, a World Heritage Site often added to the trip; Luozhuangzi Town also has the Jizhou karst caves.

The best seasons are Apr–May for mountain wildflowers and Oct–Nov for autumn foliage. Summers are cooler than in the cities, making it a good place to escape the heat and play in the water. Winters are cold, and skiing is possible. Getting there: high-speed or intercity trains run from both Beijing and Tianjin to Jizhou Station (about 1 hour); reaching mountain sights from town requires a car, a private driver or a tourist bus line. We suggest 2–3 days: one day for the town and Mount Panshan, one for Huangyaguan and Limutai, staying overnight in Guojiagou, and one for the Eastern Qing Tombs. Farmstays and scenic areas are crowded on holidays, so book ahead.

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