Tangier

A literary port city on the Strait of Gibraltar, with its kasbah and medina, the Caves of Hercules and Cap Spartel, where two seas meet within sight of Europe.

Tangier sits at Morocco's northern tip on the southern shore of the Strait of Gibraltar, facing Spain across the water; on clear days you can see the mountains on the far side. From 1923 to 1956 it was an 'International Zone', attracting a crowd of European and American writers, artists and spies. Matisse, Paul Bowles and the Beat Generation writers all left their mark here, giving the port city a cosmopolitan blend of Arab, Spanish, French and British influences.

The city divides into three parts. First, the medina and kasbah on the northern hillside, home to the Grand Socco and Petit Socco squares, the American Legation, the Kasbah Museum and rampart terraces overlooking the strait; allow half a day to a full day on foot. Second, the Marshan heights west of the medina, with Café Hafa, the Phoenician tombs and the Mendoubia Gardens. Third, the western outskirts where the Atlantic meets the Mediterranean: Perdicaris Park, the Cap Spartel lighthouse and the Caves of Hercules are strung along the coast road, an easy half-day trip by hired car or taxi. About 45 km south, the whitewashed, mural-covered town of Asilah is a classic day trip.

The weather is pleasant Apr–Oct, with cool, breezy summers; winters are rainy. Ferries from Tarifa and Algeciras in Spain reach Tangier port in about 1–1.5 hours. From Tanger Ville station, Al Boraq high-speed trains run to Rabat and Casablanca (just over 2 hours), and the city is also the gateway to Chefchaouen and Tetouan. Allow 2–3 days. The medina has plenty of unofficial guides and touts; a polite 'no thank you' is enough. Mosques are generally open to Muslims only.

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