Tafí del Valle
A summer retreat in an Andean valley in western Tucumán, where La Angostura reservoir mirrors the mountains, the Menhires park displays pre-Inca standing stones, and Route 307 crosses the Abra del Infiernillo pass to Cafayate.
Tafí del Valle lies in the west of Tucumán Province in northwestern Argentina and is the eastern gateway to the Calchaquí Valleys. The valley floor sits at about 2,000 m, ringed by mountains including the Sierra del Aconquija and Cerro Calimpuja. It's about 107 km and 2.5 hours west of the provincial capital, San Miguel de Tucumán, along Route 307. The road first passes through the cloud-forest-clad Los Sosa gorge, then climbs in switchbacks as the scenery shifts abruptly from humid jungle to open highland meadows – the drive itself is a highlight. At the heart of the valley is La Angostura reservoir. On its south shore, next to the hamlet of El Mollar, the Parque de los Menhires gathers more than a hundred carved standing stones left by the Tafí culture some 2,000 years ago. On the north shore, the town of Tafí del Valle is the hub for lodging and dining; on its edge is the Jesuit-era La Banda chapel museum, and nearby estancias such as Las Carreras and Los Cuartos serve the famous local Tafí cheese. Continuing northwest over the Abra del Infiernillo pass at about 3,000 m, you enter the dry Calchaquí Valleys, heading on to Amaicha, the Quilmes ruins and Cafayate. Climate: summer (Dec–Feb) is peak season for Argentines escaping the heat – days are cool, but afternoon thunderstorms and fog are common. Spring and autumn are sunny and quiet, the best times for driving and hiking; winter nights often drop below freezing. The National Cheese Festival is held in February. Plan on 1–2 nights; driving is easiest, though long-distance buses run from Tucumán. UV is strong in the mountains and day–night temperature swings are large, so bring sun protection and warm layers; mild altitude sickness is possible around the Abra del Infiernillo.
Top sights
- Tafí del Valle – A highland valley town at about 2,000 metres, known for its cheese, lakes and mountain scenery. It is a summer retreat for the people of Tu…
- Parque de los Menhires – An archaeological park in El Mollar displaying granite standing stones carved by the Tafí culture about two thousand years ago.
- Dique La Angostura – A highland reservoir lake at the bottom of Tafí Valley, surrounded by mountains. Windsurfing, kitesurfing, fishing and horse riding are all…
- Quebrada de los Sosa – A cloud-forest gorge crossed by Route 307, with waterfalls, streams and the 'Indian Monument' lookout.
- Capilla Jesuítica de La Banda – An 18th-century Jesuit estate chapel in Tafí Valley, now a small museum displaying archaeology and colonial history.
- Abra del Infiernillo – An Andean pass at 3,042 m above sea level, where the landscape changes sharply as you cross from the humid valley into the dry highlands.
- El Mollar – A quiet village on the south shore of Angostura Reservoir, home to Menhir Park. Ideal for horse riding, cycling and lakeside strolls.
- Estancia Las Carreras – A historic estate dating back to the Jesuit era, famous for handmade cheese. Visitors can tour the cheese workshop, taste the products and…
- Estancia Los Cuartos – A 19th-century adobe estate in the town centre that operates as a guesthouse and tea room, where you can taste homemade cheese and a mounta…
Where to eat
- Rancho de Félix – Opened in 1963 as the valley's first restaurant, famous for Tucumán beef empanadas, corn stew and corn-leaf tamales. It…
- La Estancia de los Santiagueños – The liveliest grill on Critto Avenue, the main street, where goat is skewer-roasted over an open flame in the window, a…