Sukhothai

Ancient capital of Thailand's first kingdom, where stupas are reflected in lotus ponds in a World Heritage historical park; combine it with Si Satchanalai and Kamphaeng Phet, and visit the birthplace of Loy Krathong.

Sukhothai lies on the plains of north-central Thailand; its name means "Dawn of Happiness". From the 13th to the 15th century it was the capital of the first independent Thai kingdom, and it is regarded as the birthplace of the Thai script, Thai Buddhist art and the Loy Krathong festival. A visit divides into three parts: first, Sukhothai Historical Park, about 12 km west of the new town (Mueang Sukhothai), where the central zone inside the moat contains Wat Mahathat, Wat Sa Si and Wat Si Sawai, while the outer northern, western and southern zones include the giant Buddha of Wat Si Chum and the standing Buddha of Wat Saphan Hin; second, Si Satchanalai Historical Park and the Sawankhalok kilns, about 55 km to the north; and third, Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park, about 75 km to the south. Together they form the World Heritage Site "Historic Town of Sukhothai and Associated Historic Towns". Climate: the cool season from November to February is best; Loy Krathong, held around the full moon in November, brings light shows and krathong floating to the historical park, so book accommodation early. March to May is scorching, and June to October is the rainy season but with fewer visitors. Getting there: buses from Bangkok take about 6–7 hours, or fly to Sukhothai Airport (few flights) or Phitsanulok Airport and transfer by road for about 1 hour; blue songthaews (shared pickup taxis) run between the new town and the old city. It's best to stay near the old city and rent a bicycle to tour the park; with 2–3 days you can also fit in Si Satchanalai. Tips: the ruins are very hot with little shade, so visit in the early morning and late afternoon and bring plenty of water and sun protection; dress respectfully in front of Buddha images, and never climb or sit on them.

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