Srinagar

Houseboats on Dal Lake and Mughal gardens, with the alpine meadows of Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg nearby – Kashmir, "paradise on earth".

Srinagar is the summer capital of the Indian union territory of Jammu and Kashmir, set at about 1,600 m in the heart of the Kashmir Valley. The Jhelum River runs through the city, Dal Lake and Nigeen Lake lie to the northeast, and the Himalayas and Pir Panjal Range rise all around. Famous for its houseboats, shikara boats and Mughal gardens, it is often called "paradise on earth". The best season is April–October: the tulip garden opens for a limited period in April, May–September offers a cool escape from the summer heat, and October–November brings the finest red chinar foliage; December–March is cold and snowy, when Gulmarg becomes a ski resort. Sightseeing falls into three parts: first, Dal Lake and, along its eastern shore, Shalimar Bagh, Nishat Bagh, Chashme Shahi, Pari Mahal and the Shankaracharya Temple; second, the old city's Jamia Masjid, Khanqah-e-Moula (Shah Hamadan shrine) and Hari Parbat Fort; third, day trips to the surrounding mountains – Gulmarg to the west (about 50 km, with a gondola climbing to nearly 4,000 m), Sonamarg to the northeast (about 80 km) and Pahalgam to the southeast (about 95 km; an overnight stay is recommended), stopping en route at ancient sites such as the Martand Sun Temple. Getting there: Srinagar Airport has flights to Delhi, Mumbai and other cities; the railway now reaches Srinagar, but getting around the city and region is mostly by hired car. Allow 4–6 days. Note: the security situation here is sensitive – in April 2025 there was an attack on tourists near Pahalgam – so be sure to check the latest advisories from China's Ministry of Foreign Affairs and local authorities before you travel, as some sites may close at short notice. Foreigners face restrictions on using prepaid SIM cards locally; dress conservatively at temples and mosques; and always agree on prices for houseboats, shikaras and pony rides in advance.

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