Siquijor

A small island famed as the "Island of Witchcraft", with Cambugahay Falls, a century-old balete tree and quiet beaches – a peaceful hideaway on the central Philippines island-hopping trail.

Siquijor is a small island in the Visayas of the central Philippines, south-east of Dumaguete on Negros and south-west of Bohol. Covering about 340 sq km, it has a ring road of about 72 km that you can loop by motorbike in a day. Spanish colonists called it the "Island of Fire" for the fireflies that lit up its trees at night; the folk remedies of its traditional herbal healers (mananambal) have made it known across the Philippines as the "Island of Witchcraft", though today this mystique is more a part of local folk culture.

Where to go: Lazi in the south-east (Cambugahay Falls, the century-old balete tree, Lazi Church and Convent); Maria in the north-east (cliff jumping at Salagdoong Beach); San Juan in the west (Paliton Beach, Tubod Marine Sanctuary, Capilay Spring Park, and the island's main cluster of resorts and sunsets); and the capital, Siquijor town, in the north (the port and St Francis of Assisi Church).

Season: December to May is the dry season with calm seas; March to May is the hottest. June to November brings typhoons and rain, and ferries may be suspended.

Getting there: fast ferries from Dumaguete port take about 1 hour, and there are also routes from Tagbilaran on Bohol; from Cebu, connect via Dumaguete or Bohol. A small environmental fee is charged on arrival. Most visitors get around by rented motorbike (about 300–500 pesos per day) or a hired tricycle tour. Allow 2–3 days; it's often combined with Bohol and Dumaguete (snorkelling at Apo Island).

Tips: ATMs are scarce, so bring plenty of pesos in cash. Roads are poorly lit at night – ride carefully and always wear a helmet. Many sights charge entry fees of a few dozen to a hundred-odd pesos, collected by villages or local government. Chinese passport holders need a Philippine visa in advance (an e-visa is available); check the latest information from the Philippine authorities and China's Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Check the water depth before jumping at waterfalls and beaches, respect local customs, and don't put too much faith in herbal products such as so-called "love potions".

Top sights

• Cambugahay Falls – Siquijor's most famous three-tier limestone waterfall, with turquoise pools where you can swing on a rope and jump in. It is a must-see on…
• Salagdoong Beach – A white-sand cove in Maria town on the northeast of the island, with cliff platforms for jumping into blue water from about 10 to 15 meters…
• Old Enchanted Balete Tree – A giant banyan said to be over 400 years old. A spring wells up beneath its roots to form a small pool, where you can dip your feet in and…
• Lazi Church & Convent (San Isidro Labrador) – A Baroque church built in the late 19th century of coral stone and hardwood, alongside one of Asia's largest old convents. Both are listed…
• Paliton Beach – A small white-sand beach in San Juan on the west coast, with coconut palms leaning over the sea. It is widely regarded as the most beautifu…
• Capilay Spring Park – A natural spring-fed swimming park in the centre of San Juan, with cool spring water channelled straight into the pools. It is where locals…
• St. Francis of Assisi Church, Siquijor – An old coral-stone church in Siquijor's capital town, with a freestanding bell tower overlooking the harbor. It's an easy stop while waitin…
• Tubod Marine Sanctuary – A community marine sanctuary on the coast at San Juan where you can snorkel straight from the shore. Coral and fish are plentiful, and the…
• Mount Bandilaan Nature Park – The highest point on Siquijor, at about 557 meters. Forest trails and a lookout tower offer views over the whole island and out to Bohol.
• Lugnason Falls – A small waterfall in a valley near San Juan, with blue-green pools for swimming and jumping. It is quieter than Cambugahay Falls.
• Kagusuan Beach – A hidden little cove below the cliffs in Maria town, reached by a stone staircase. Several small patches of white sand and clear water sit…
• Guiwanon Spring Park – A mangrove boardwalk and spring park near Siquijor town, with stilt treehouses. An easy stroll on the way around the island.
• Cantabon Cave – A limestone cave in the middle of the island. You wade and climb through it with a guide, and the stalactites and underground water flow ar…
• Our Lady of Divine Providence Church, Maria – A coral-stone church from the Spanish colonial period in Maria town. The bell tower is joined to the church, and inside is an old carved wo…
• Tulapos Marine Sanctuary – The largest marine sanctuary on the island, in Enrique Villanueva town. Good for snorkeling and diving along a coral wall.
• Larena Triad – A triangular hilltop café and restaurant above Larena town, overlooking the bay and coast. Sip coffee and watch the sunset here.
• Sandugan Beach – A long white-sand beach in Larena on the north coast, with resorts and dive shops clustered together. The reef beyond the beach is good for…

Where to eat

• Baha Bar Restaurant – The most famous restaurant bar in San Juan, offering small Filipino plates, house-brewed beer and live music every nigh…
• Dolce Amore – An Italian-run restaurant in San Juan with sourdough Neapolitan pizza, handmade pasta and house-made gelato that have e…
• Salamandas Seaside Restaurant – A seaside restaurant inside the Coco Grove beach resort, open to non-guests, where you can watch the sunset over seafoo…
• Twenty4 Burger Bar – An affordable bar in Lazi town, known for house-baked bread and burgers, with a four-course set menu on weekends.

Itineraries

• Central Visayas Island Hopping Slow Route – A backpacking island-hopping route heading south from Cebu, passing through Dumaguete, Apo Island, and Siquijor to Boho…